Aging Cats: Difficulty Moving
Aging cats have trouble getting around - why? How can you keep your older cat active?
As your cat ages, it will naturally go through body changes and you can help your cat adapt. Here are a few things to look for.
What are the signs of arthritis in your cats?
Lack of mobility. Many times cats' favorite spots are up high or on ledges. If it does not jump up to its spot as often as it used to, it might be experiencing arthritis and may require a trip to the veterinarian. Some over-the-counter products give some relief, but it is best to check with your vet first about medications. Even if your vet prescribes it, you will want to follow the dosage. Cats have a very low tolerance for some anti-inflammatory medications.
Why is exercise important for your cats?
Cats lose muscle tone and mass when they do not exercise. Exercise is also important for their overall health. It helps their cardiovascular and nervous systems. If your cat is slowing down, it is important to keep them up and moving.
What happens if they cannot see their toys?
If for some reason your cats do not notice new toys, they may have a vision problem. Your cat should get an eye exam each year during its regular exam. If it is losing its sight, you will have to decide whether to move its food and water.
Should you move its food?
While you do want your cats to exercise, you do not want them to have to work for food or water. You may want to put their necessities on a level that's more accessible to them. The same goes for the litter box.
Should you feed them less?
When people age, their metabolisms slow. It also happens in many animals, but not in cats. You will want to give them the same amount of food as they age, to make sure they get the same amount of nutrition.
What else should you look for?
Once your cat starts to slow down, you will need to be aware of other diseases it could get. Lack of movement can slow its digestive track; in turn making it constipated. Perhaps set out more water to drink, this may also prevent hairballs. Constipation is also a sign of other diseases. If your cat is constipated, you should take it to the vet.
While many of these things might sound scary, many cats live very long happy lives. The more aware you are of their potential ailments, the more likely you can help relieve problems early on.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Persian Cats
Persian Cats
Persian cat info: description of the appearance, temperament, type of fur, grooming, and varieties of Persian cats along with a brief history of the breed.
Persian cats are medium to large in size and have stocky bodies with short thick legs. Their chests are deep and broad while their shoulders and hips are about equal in width. Persians have well-rounded midsections, but their muscles are well developed. Their well-rounded heads have domed foreheads, and their short necks make it appear that their heads sit directly on top of their shoulders. Full cheeks and a broad snub nose make them easy to recognize. Persians have large, round eyes that are set wide apart and may be in various brilliant colors that conform to their coats. Their wide-set ears are small with rounded tips, and they tilt forward. The legs are straight, and the feet are firm and well rounded with long tufts of hair between the toes. The tails are considerably fluffy, and the tail length is in proportion to the body length. Persian cats are known for their thick coats of fur that can be as long as six inches or fifteen centimeters in length. The fur is soft and dense.
Persian cats are calm and gentle animals and are quite lovable. They enjoy being admired and pampered and also enjoy company but are not demanding of attention. Persian cats also have a quality of serenity that enables them to sit like statues for long periods of time.
Daily grooming is required to keep a Persian cat clean and healthy. A big part of this comes with taking care of the eyes, which should be cleaned daily. Daily grooming of the fur is necessary as well since Persians shed all year long. If the dead hair is not regularly removed, matting and hairballs may plague the cat. Metal combs or brushes with long wire or natural bristles are recommended.
There are many varieties of Persian cats. Varieties are based on what colors the cats are, whether their colors are solid or shaded, and what pattern if any is visible in their fur. In the United States, all colors of Persian cats compete on the same standards at cat shows. Cats with pointed colors are called Himalayan Persians in most associations, but in other associations, they are still classified as Himalayans and judged as a separate breed. In Britain, Persians are referred to as Colorpoint Longhairs.
In the solid color division, there are whites, creams, blacks, blues, reds, lilacs, and chocolates. All of these have brilliant copper eyes except for the white ones. Blue or copper eyes are found in white cats, or each eye may be a different color with one usually being blue and the other copper or yellow. In the shaded division, there are the chinchilla silver, goldens, cameos (white with red tips), as well as chinchilla and shaded versions of all the solid colors. The smoke division includes such colors as black smoke, cream smoke, blue smoke, cameo smoke, chocolate smoke, lilac smoke, and tortoiseshell smoke. Cats in the smoke class usually have copper eyes. In the tabby class, there are blue, brown, cameo, chocolate, cream, lilac, red, silver, and patched tabbies. Each one comes in four tabby patterns. The patterns are classic (patched), ticked, mackerel, and spotted. Most tabby cats have copper eyes. The tortoiseshell is the smallest section and consists of blue creams, chocolate creams, lilac creams, and tortoiseshell (red and black). This pattern is comprised of two colors that are randomly splotched all over the cat. Their eyes are typically copper colored. The particolor division or bicolor division is made up of calicos (white with red and black splotches), blue calico, chocolate calico, and lilac calico. In addition, any of the solid, smoke, shaded, tabby, or tortoiseshell colors with the addition of white will fall in this category. Their eyes are typically copper to orange in color. Himalayans fall into the newest division. This covers seal point, blue point, chocolate point, lilac point, red point, tortie point, and lynx point. All Himalayans should have blue eyes.
The original Persian cats most likely developed a spontaneous mutation that gave them their long coats as a way to protect them from the cold climate. These cats became well known in Europe in the 1600s and were among the first breeds to be registered and shown. They were first called longhairs, and that term was used until the early 1960s when in the United States they were then called Himalayans. In Britain, they are still called longhairs, and each color is considered a separate breed. Many of the Persian cats found in the United States today came from the mating of Angora and Maine Coon cats. Many outstanding Persians in various blues were produced in Britain in the 1940s and 1950s, and they eventually became part of the breeding stock in United States catteries. The average cost of a Persian cat varies but usually averages between $350 and $500.
Persian cat info: description of the appearance, temperament, type of fur, grooming, and varieties of Persian cats along with a brief history of the breed.
Persian cats are medium to large in size and have stocky bodies with short thick legs. Their chests are deep and broad while their shoulders and hips are about equal in width. Persians have well-rounded midsections, but their muscles are well developed. Their well-rounded heads have domed foreheads, and their short necks make it appear that their heads sit directly on top of their shoulders. Full cheeks and a broad snub nose make them easy to recognize. Persians have large, round eyes that are set wide apart and may be in various brilliant colors that conform to their coats. Their wide-set ears are small with rounded tips, and they tilt forward. The legs are straight, and the feet are firm and well rounded with long tufts of hair between the toes. The tails are considerably fluffy, and the tail length is in proportion to the body length. Persian cats are known for their thick coats of fur that can be as long as six inches or fifteen centimeters in length. The fur is soft and dense.
Persian cats are calm and gentle animals and are quite lovable. They enjoy being admired and pampered and also enjoy company but are not demanding of attention. Persian cats also have a quality of serenity that enables them to sit like statues for long periods of time.
Daily grooming is required to keep a Persian cat clean and healthy. A big part of this comes with taking care of the eyes, which should be cleaned daily. Daily grooming of the fur is necessary as well since Persians shed all year long. If the dead hair is not regularly removed, matting and hairballs may plague the cat. Metal combs or brushes with long wire or natural bristles are recommended.
There are many varieties of Persian cats. Varieties are based on what colors the cats are, whether their colors are solid or shaded, and what pattern if any is visible in their fur. In the United States, all colors of Persian cats compete on the same standards at cat shows. Cats with pointed colors are called Himalayan Persians in most associations, but in other associations, they are still classified as Himalayans and judged as a separate breed. In Britain, Persians are referred to as Colorpoint Longhairs.
In the solid color division, there are whites, creams, blacks, blues, reds, lilacs, and chocolates. All of these have brilliant copper eyes except for the white ones. Blue or copper eyes are found in white cats, or each eye may be a different color with one usually being blue and the other copper or yellow. In the shaded division, there are the chinchilla silver, goldens, cameos (white with red tips), as well as chinchilla and shaded versions of all the solid colors. The smoke division includes such colors as black smoke, cream smoke, blue smoke, cameo smoke, chocolate smoke, lilac smoke, and tortoiseshell smoke. Cats in the smoke class usually have copper eyes. In the tabby class, there are blue, brown, cameo, chocolate, cream, lilac, red, silver, and patched tabbies. Each one comes in four tabby patterns. The patterns are classic (patched), ticked, mackerel, and spotted. Most tabby cats have copper eyes. The tortoiseshell is the smallest section and consists of blue creams, chocolate creams, lilac creams, and tortoiseshell (red and black). This pattern is comprised of two colors that are randomly splotched all over the cat. Their eyes are typically copper colored. The particolor division or bicolor division is made up of calicos (white with red and black splotches), blue calico, chocolate calico, and lilac calico. In addition, any of the solid, smoke, shaded, tabby, or tortoiseshell colors with the addition of white will fall in this category. Their eyes are typically copper to orange in color. Himalayans fall into the newest division. This covers seal point, blue point, chocolate point, lilac point, red point, tortie point, and lynx point. All Himalayans should have blue eyes.
The original Persian cats most likely developed a spontaneous mutation that gave them their long coats as a way to protect them from the cold climate. These cats became well known in Europe in the 1600s and were among the first breeds to be registered and shown. They were first called longhairs, and that term was used until the early 1960s when in the United States they were then called Himalayans. In Britain, they are still called longhairs, and each color is considered a separate breed. Many of the Persian cats found in the United States today came from the mating of Angora and Maine Coon cats. Many outstanding Persians in various blues were produced in Britain in the 1940s and 1950s, and they eventually became part of the breeding stock in United States catteries. The average cost of a Persian cat varies but usually averages between $350 and $500.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Siamese Cat Info
Siamese Cat Info
Siamese cat info: description of the appearance, temperament, type of fur, grooming, and varieties of Siamese cats with a brief history of the breed.
Siamese cats are typically sleek and slender with medium-size body frames. They are long, graceful, and svelte with fine bones and firm muscles. Their heads are tapered wedges that start at their noses and then flair out in straight lines up to their ears to form triangles. Their almond-shaped eyes slant upward from their noses. The eyes of a Siamese are always a brilliant sapphire blue. Their ears are long and pointed with open bases, and their legs are long, slim, and dainty. The paws of the Siamese are small, and their thin tails taper to a fine point with no kinks.
All Siamese cats are classified as shorthairs, but the Balinese is sometimes referred to as the longhaired Siamese. The coat of a Balinese lies close to its body and is short and glossy with a fine texture. Grooming is minimal for Siamese cats. Owners may comb or brush the cats twice a week to remove dead hair and wipe the coat with a damp chamois to help the coat gleam.
Siamese cats are loveable and intelligent animals that will continually amuse you with their antics while frustrating you with their ability to get into everything. These cats demand attention and hate to be ignored or left alone. They become very mischievous when they are bored and lonely. Siamese cats are one of the more high-strung breeds and are agile and active.
Pricing Siamese cats is usually linked to the individual kitten's bloodline and type. Many breeders will allow cats to be picked up between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. At sixteen weeks, kittens should have their basic inoculations and have developed enough physical and social stability to adjust to a new environment. Older cats make wonderful pets, too, and may already exhibit good behavior patterns.
Many varieties of Siamese cats are available including: seal point, blue point, chocolate point, lilac point, red point, tortie point, and lynx point. Seal point cats have cream-colored bodies with lighter patches on their stomachs and chests and darker patches on the back. Their points that consist of the mask, ears, legs, and tail are seal brown as are their paw pads and nose leather. Blue point cats have bluish white bodies with warmer tones on their stomachs and chests. Their points, nose leather, and paw pads are slate blue. Chocolate point cats have ivory bodies, milk chocolate points, and paw pads and nose leather that are cinnamon pink. Lilac point cats have glacial white or magnolia bodies, points that appear frosty gray with a hint of pink or lilac, and lavender pink nose leather and paw pads. Red point cats have pure white bodies with a shade of the points color. The points range from apricot to deep red with the nose leather and paw pads being coral pink or flesh colored. Tortie point cats have similar colors to the seal, blue, chocolate, and lilac points except they have a tabby pattern within the color. Irregular patches of red and/or cream appear in the points. Lynx point cats have similar colors to the above mentioned cats as well, but they have a striped pattern within the color instead of the tabby pattern.
The original Siamese cat, which can still be found in Thailand today, bears little resemblance to the American version of this show cat. The Siamese cats in Thailand are stockier and have rounded heads crossed-eyes, and kinked tails. In the Siamese cats' native land, they were worshipped and protected in temples and palaces for centuries. They were prominently featured in art and literature as well. The breed became known to the world when the royal family of Siam presented the Siamese cats as gifts to visiting dignitaries. Siamese cats began appearing in British cat shows as early as the late nineteenth century and in America in the early 1900s. At that time, only seal points were accepted in the cat shows, but slowly the other varieties were introduced. Cat fanciers debated the issue, and some associations finally accepted the colorful varieties of Siamese while other associations only accepted them as a separate breed: Colorpoint Shorthairs.
Siamese cat info: description of the appearance, temperament, type of fur, grooming, and varieties of Siamese cats with a brief history of the breed.
Siamese cats are typically sleek and slender with medium-size body frames. They are long, graceful, and svelte with fine bones and firm muscles. Their heads are tapered wedges that start at their noses and then flair out in straight lines up to their ears to form triangles. Their almond-shaped eyes slant upward from their noses. The eyes of a Siamese are always a brilliant sapphire blue. Their ears are long and pointed with open bases, and their legs are long, slim, and dainty. The paws of the Siamese are small, and their thin tails taper to a fine point with no kinks.
All Siamese cats are classified as shorthairs, but the Balinese is sometimes referred to as the longhaired Siamese. The coat of a Balinese lies close to its body and is short and glossy with a fine texture. Grooming is minimal for Siamese cats. Owners may comb or brush the cats twice a week to remove dead hair and wipe the coat with a damp chamois to help the coat gleam.
Siamese cats are loveable and intelligent animals that will continually amuse you with their antics while frustrating you with their ability to get into everything. These cats demand attention and hate to be ignored or left alone. They become very mischievous when they are bored and lonely. Siamese cats are one of the more high-strung breeds and are agile and active.
Pricing Siamese cats is usually linked to the individual kitten's bloodline and type. Many breeders will allow cats to be picked up between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. At sixteen weeks, kittens should have their basic inoculations and have developed enough physical and social stability to adjust to a new environment. Older cats make wonderful pets, too, and may already exhibit good behavior patterns.
Many varieties of Siamese cats are available including: seal point, blue point, chocolate point, lilac point, red point, tortie point, and lynx point. Seal point cats have cream-colored bodies with lighter patches on their stomachs and chests and darker patches on the back. Their points that consist of the mask, ears, legs, and tail are seal brown as are their paw pads and nose leather. Blue point cats have bluish white bodies with warmer tones on their stomachs and chests. Their points, nose leather, and paw pads are slate blue. Chocolate point cats have ivory bodies, milk chocolate points, and paw pads and nose leather that are cinnamon pink. Lilac point cats have glacial white or magnolia bodies, points that appear frosty gray with a hint of pink or lilac, and lavender pink nose leather and paw pads. Red point cats have pure white bodies with a shade of the points color. The points range from apricot to deep red with the nose leather and paw pads being coral pink or flesh colored. Tortie point cats have similar colors to the seal, blue, chocolate, and lilac points except they have a tabby pattern within the color. Irregular patches of red and/or cream appear in the points. Lynx point cats have similar colors to the above mentioned cats as well, but they have a striped pattern within the color instead of the tabby pattern.
The original Siamese cat, which can still be found in Thailand today, bears little resemblance to the American version of this show cat. The Siamese cats in Thailand are stockier and have rounded heads crossed-eyes, and kinked tails. In the Siamese cats' native land, they were worshipped and protected in temples and palaces for centuries. They were prominently featured in art and literature as well. The breed became known to the world when the royal family of Siam presented the Siamese cats as gifts to visiting dignitaries. Siamese cats began appearing in British cat shows as early as the late nineteenth century and in America in the early 1900s. At that time, only seal points were accepted in the cat shows, but slowly the other varieties were introduced. Cat fanciers debated the issue, and some associations finally accepted the colorful varieties of Siamese while other associations only accepted them as a separate breed: Colorpoint Shorthairs.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Plants That Are Poisonous To Cats
Plants That Are Poisonous To Cats
Learn which plants are poisonous to cats. Cats ingest grass or other plant material to aid in hairball elimination. Beware! Many plants are toxic for felines!
Cats are supposed to be carnivores meat eaters but how many times have you seen Puss nibbling on your prize spider plant or fern? If she's allowed outdoors she probably heads straight for the lushest part of the lawn, then begins "grazing". A few minutes later she'll likely vomit or worse zip back inside and regurgitate onto your carpet! You mutter something about never letting the beast outside again, then clean up the mess. Puss is forgiven for her little 'mistake' and next day it happens all over again.
Why do cats have the urge to eat grass and other types of greenery? Veterinarians and other animal specialists really don't know for sure, although they do agree that this type of behavior is completely normal. Their best guess is that cats nibble on plant matter to stimulate vomiting which rids them of hairballs ingested from grooming. For cats that don't vomit after plant ingestion it may be that they simply enjoy some roughage in their diet from time to time.
While Puss might enjoy variety, chewing on certain kinds of plants could make her very sick, and in some cases, kill her. Why? Many varieties of indoor and outdoor plants are toxic. To keep your cat safe, it makes sense to have only those varieties of houseplants that are non-poisonous. It's also a good idea to keep all your houseplants out of a cat's reach. Hanging baskets or high shelves usually do the trick. Even then it's a good idea to spray plants with some type of pungent and non-irritating solution to keep Puss away. A mild vinegar solution will work.
Greenhouses often spray their plants with long-lasting systemic poisons to control pests. If your cat ingests these sprays due to plant nibbling she may also become ill. Ask about the use of these sprays and the kinds of safe solutions available to neutralise them.
There's a simple alternative to keep Puss's mind off those tempting plants. Pet stores carry assorted kits that come complete with quick-sprouting grass or grain seeds, potting soil and a pot. In a matter of 7-10 days, your cat can have her own little "grazing" pot which can be re-seeded again and again.
Here's a short list of just a few indoor and outdoor plants that can cause vomiting, nausea or convulsions or be potentially toxic for your cat: dieffenbachia (or dumbcane), philodendrons, asparagus fern, bleeding heart, Boston ivy, chrysanthemum, clematis, hemlock, lantana, mock orange, morning glory, poppy, potato, rubber plant, rhubarb, schefflera, spider plant (although some experts disagree) tulips, umbrella plant, wisteria.
Don't let your guard down at Christmas or Easter either! Poinsettias, mistletoe and the Christmas rose can be fatal. Daffodils are friendly-looking flowers, but are also lethal so avoid bringing them into your house at all. If you can't celebrate the Christmas season without the traditional poinsettia, keep the plant away from curious kitties.
Talk to your veterinarian for complete list of indoor and outdoor plants that may be harmful to your cat. Keep it handy and check it before introducing any new plants into your home or your garden.
If Puss has ingested even a tiny piece of a toxic plant, get her to the vet right away. Some cats won't show immediate symptoms. Others may drool, vomit, swell around the mouth, have difficulty breathing or they may get diarrhea. If ingestion of a toxic plant or substance has just occurred and you can't get your cat to the vet right away, try to induce vomiting. Give syrup of Ipecac or one quarter teaspoon of salt placed at the back of the tongue. Or consult your vet for a recommended alternative.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT induce vomiting if your cat has swallowed the toxic plant more than two hours before, is comatose, or has swallowed some type of chemical or cleaning product!! In this case it's even more imperative to get her to the vet as soon as possible!
Plants and cats. Sometimes they're a potentially hazardous mix. Make sure you know the plants that are harmful for your feline friend and those that aren't. You and she will have much greater piece of mind!
Learn which plants are poisonous to cats. Cats ingest grass or other plant material to aid in hairball elimination. Beware! Many plants are toxic for felines!
Cats are supposed to be carnivores meat eaters but how many times have you seen Puss nibbling on your prize spider plant or fern? If she's allowed outdoors she probably heads straight for the lushest part of the lawn, then begins "grazing". A few minutes later she'll likely vomit or worse zip back inside and regurgitate onto your carpet! You mutter something about never letting the beast outside again, then clean up the mess. Puss is forgiven for her little 'mistake' and next day it happens all over again.
Why do cats have the urge to eat grass and other types of greenery? Veterinarians and other animal specialists really don't know for sure, although they do agree that this type of behavior is completely normal. Their best guess is that cats nibble on plant matter to stimulate vomiting which rids them of hairballs ingested from grooming. For cats that don't vomit after plant ingestion it may be that they simply enjoy some roughage in their diet from time to time.
While Puss might enjoy variety, chewing on certain kinds of plants could make her very sick, and in some cases, kill her. Why? Many varieties of indoor and outdoor plants are toxic. To keep your cat safe, it makes sense to have only those varieties of houseplants that are non-poisonous. It's also a good idea to keep all your houseplants out of a cat's reach. Hanging baskets or high shelves usually do the trick. Even then it's a good idea to spray plants with some type of pungent and non-irritating solution to keep Puss away. A mild vinegar solution will work.
Greenhouses often spray their plants with long-lasting systemic poisons to control pests. If your cat ingests these sprays due to plant nibbling she may also become ill. Ask about the use of these sprays and the kinds of safe solutions available to neutralise them.
There's a simple alternative to keep Puss's mind off those tempting plants. Pet stores carry assorted kits that come complete with quick-sprouting grass or grain seeds, potting soil and a pot. In a matter of 7-10 days, your cat can have her own little "grazing" pot which can be re-seeded again and again.
Here's a short list of just a few indoor and outdoor plants that can cause vomiting, nausea or convulsions or be potentially toxic for your cat: dieffenbachia (or dumbcane), philodendrons, asparagus fern, bleeding heart, Boston ivy, chrysanthemum, clematis, hemlock, lantana, mock orange, morning glory, poppy, potato, rubber plant, rhubarb, schefflera, spider plant (although some experts disagree) tulips, umbrella plant, wisteria.
Don't let your guard down at Christmas or Easter either! Poinsettias, mistletoe and the Christmas rose can be fatal. Daffodils are friendly-looking flowers, but are also lethal so avoid bringing them into your house at all. If you can't celebrate the Christmas season without the traditional poinsettia, keep the plant away from curious kitties.
Talk to your veterinarian for complete list of indoor and outdoor plants that may be harmful to your cat. Keep it handy and check it before introducing any new plants into your home or your garden.
If Puss has ingested even a tiny piece of a toxic plant, get her to the vet right away. Some cats won't show immediate symptoms. Others may drool, vomit, swell around the mouth, have difficulty breathing or they may get diarrhea. If ingestion of a toxic plant or substance has just occurred and you can't get your cat to the vet right away, try to induce vomiting. Give syrup of Ipecac or one quarter teaspoon of salt placed at the back of the tongue. Or consult your vet for a recommended alternative.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT induce vomiting if your cat has swallowed the toxic plant more than two hours before, is comatose, or has swallowed some type of chemical or cleaning product!! In this case it's even more imperative to get her to the vet as soon as possible!
Plants and cats. Sometimes they're a potentially hazardous mix. Make sure you know the plants that are harmful for your feline friend and those that aren't. You and she will have much greater piece of mind!
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Cutting Your Cat'S Claws
Cutting Your Cat'S Claws
Step-by-step instructions on cutting your cat's claws.
If you have a cat, you're already familiar with the damage it can inflict with its razor-sharp claws. Claws, like our fingernails, grow constantly, and cats enjoy "kneading" their claws on just about any surface with special fondness for upholstered furniture and carpets. After awhile, the object of all this feline attention can be reduced to tatters.
A few moments a week is all you need to minimize this damage and protect your furniture from snags and your ankles from scratches. Learning to cut your cat's claws is easy. All you need is patience and the proper equipment.
Equipment
I recommend a regular fingernail clipper, the kind you can pick up at any convenience store or drug store. You might even try a baby-size nail clipper, depending on the size of your own hands. Most, scissor-handled clippers, designed for dogs, are much too large to use on cat's claws. The small size and easy maneuverability of the typical fingernail clipper makes it the ideal tool.
Preparation
If your cat is not a kitten and is not accustomed to having its nails clipped, you should take some time over the course of a few weeks to get your cat comfortable with you handling its paws.
Whenever your cat is in a cuddly mood, simply pick up one of its front paws and hold it gently for a while. If your cat doesn't object to this, try to extend its claws so you can take a look at them and get a feel for the technique, which is described below. If your cat struggles or growls, immediately let it go. At this point, all you want to do is introduce your cat to the idea of someone touching its paws and manipulating its claws. With older cats, this may take some time. You can smooth the way some by offering your cat a little treat if it allows you to handle its paws for a time.
Technique
Once your cat is used to the idea of its paws being handled, it is much easier to approach the task of clipping the nails. Hold your cat on your lap, sitting up, and take one of its front paws in your "grasping" hand; the other hand will be the "clipping" hand. Generally, if you are right-handed, you'll want to clip with your right hand and grasp with the left, but experiment and find which works best for you.
The first thing to do is extend the claws. Grasp the paw firmly with your fingers underneath and your thumb on top. The pad of the cat's foot should rest on your fingertips. Comparing the cat's paw to your own hand, your fingers would be on the palm side, with your thumb resting behind the knuckles.
Using gentle pressure with your thumb, press down behind each of the toes to extend each claw. If you squeeze gently in the center, sometimes all the claws will extend; it can be easier to extend one at a time, though. Again comparing how this would work on your own hand, pinch your hand between your forefinger and thumb, just behind each knuckle.
With very little pressure, the claw will extend, and you can easily see the sharp tip you need to snip. Using the nail clippers, snip just the sharp tip, certainly no more than 1/8 of an inch. If you cut off too much, you will injure your cat. If you snip quickly and carefully, the cat may not even react. Typically, it tries to pull away, but try to continue, making reassuring sounds as you go.
Once you have clipped the first nail, extend the next, and clip it. Keep extending and clipping until all five nails (for front paws) or four (for back paws) have been trimmed, or until your cat lets you know that it has had enough.
Don't try to trim the claws of an angry or impatient cat. You know your cat's temper, so if you detect the sure signs of an attack, back off quickly. It is very common to have to trim one paw at a time, or even just a few nails.
Reward your cat's patience by extra cuddles or games, or perhaps a treat. You will probably not have to repeat this process weekly, but you should check your cat's claws frequently so that it remains accustomed to the feeling of you extending its claws, even if the claws don't need trimming. Back paws need less maintenance than front paws, too; you won't need to trim them every week.
Once established as part of a regular routine, nail clipping is quickly and easily done and is a life preserver for the upholstery in your home.
Step-by-step instructions on cutting your cat's claws.
If you have a cat, you're already familiar with the damage it can inflict with its razor-sharp claws. Claws, like our fingernails, grow constantly, and cats enjoy "kneading" their claws on just about any surface with special fondness for upholstered furniture and carpets. After awhile, the object of all this feline attention can be reduced to tatters.
A few moments a week is all you need to minimize this damage and protect your furniture from snags and your ankles from scratches. Learning to cut your cat's claws is easy. All you need is patience and the proper equipment.
Equipment
I recommend a regular fingernail clipper, the kind you can pick up at any convenience store or drug store. You might even try a baby-size nail clipper, depending on the size of your own hands. Most, scissor-handled clippers, designed for dogs, are much too large to use on cat's claws. The small size and easy maneuverability of the typical fingernail clipper makes it the ideal tool.
Preparation
If your cat is not a kitten and is not accustomed to having its nails clipped, you should take some time over the course of a few weeks to get your cat comfortable with you handling its paws.
Whenever your cat is in a cuddly mood, simply pick up one of its front paws and hold it gently for a while. If your cat doesn't object to this, try to extend its claws so you can take a look at them and get a feel for the technique, which is described below. If your cat struggles or growls, immediately let it go. At this point, all you want to do is introduce your cat to the idea of someone touching its paws and manipulating its claws. With older cats, this may take some time. You can smooth the way some by offering your cat a little treat if it allows you to handle its paws for a time.
Technique
Once your cat is used to the idea of its paws being handled, it is much easier to approach the task of clipping the nails. Hold your cat on your lap, sitting up, and take one of its front paws in your "grasping" hand; the other hand will be the "clipping" hand. Generally, if you are right-handed, you'll want to clip with your right hand and grasp with the left, but experiment and find which works best for you.
The first thing to do is extend the claws. Grasp the paw firmly with your fingers underneath and your thumb on top. The pad of the cat's foot should rest on your fingertips. Comparing the cat's paw to your own hand, your fingers would be on the palm side, with your thumb resting behind the knuckles.
Using gentle pressure with your thumb, press down behind each of the toes to extend each claw. If you squeeze gently in the center, sometimes all the claws will extend; it can be easier to extend one at a time, though. Again comparing how this would work on your own hand, pinch your hand between your forefinger and thumb, just behind each knuckle.
With very little pressure, the claw will extend, and you can easily see the sharp tip you need to snip. Using the nail clippers, snip just the sharp tip, certainly no more than 1/8 of an inch. If you cut off too much, you will injure your cat. If you snip quickly and carefully, the cat may not even react. Typically, it tries to pull away, but try to continue, making reassuring sounds as you go.
Once you have clipped the first nail, extend the next, and clip it. Keep extending and clipping until all five nails (for front paws) or four (for back paws) have been trimmed, or until your cat lets you know that it has had enough.
Don't try to trim the claws of an angry or impatient cat. You know your cat's temper, so if you detect the sure signs of an attack, back off quickly. It is very common to have to trim one paw at a time, or even just a few nails.
Reward your cat's patience by extra cuddles or games, or perhaps a treat. You will probably not have to repeat this process weekly, but you should check your cat's claws frequently so that it remains accustomed to the feeling of you extending its claws, even if the claws don't need trimming. Back paws need less maintenance than front paws, too; you won't need to trim them every week.
Once established as part of a regular routine, nail clipping is quickly and easily done and is a life preserver for the upholstery in your home.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Cat Hair Ball Remedy
Cat Hair Ball Remedy
Hair balls are a natural part of your cat's life. Overgrooming and skin irritation however, can lead to a very unhealthy obsession. Learn how to prevent and treat the common hair ball.
Cats often spend hours licking their coats and paws. Sometimes, therefore, too much hair can get trapped in a cat's stomach, thus causing hair balls.
THE MAKING OF A HAIR BALL
Hair balls form naturally in cats after days (and sometimes weeks or months) of grooming. Large accumulations of hair become trapped in the stomach because they are simply too big to pass through the digestive system. The more hair that enters the stomach at one time, the larger the wad becomes. Cats need to regurgitate, vomit, or cough up these balls of hair to prevent digestive blockages and disease.
PREVENTING HAIR BALLS
While it would be impossible to teach your pet not to groom itself, there are ways to work around hair balls.
THE FIBER FIXER
Sometimes a high fiber pet food is all it takes to accelerate the passage of a hair ball or alleviate hair balls altogether. When looking for high fiber foods, look for ones containing 3-10 percent fiber. The higher the fiber level, the less trouble your pet will have eliminating hair.
USE THE BRUSH
Brushing cats of stray hair won't stop them from their incessant need to clean, but it will help to cut down on the amount of hair they're swallowing each day. Cats shed hundreds of hairs each day, especially in spring and summer months. Long haired cats should be combed and brushed twice daily. Shorter haired cats should be brushed thoroughly every day.
USE MOISTURE
If you moisten a washcloth and wipe your cat following a brushing session, you'll attract whatever stray and loose hairs your combing and brushing missed. Moisten a paper towel or washcloth with lukewarm water and spend 60 seconds petting the hair away.
TREATING HAIR BALLS
Petroleum elixir. When your cat first begins hacking, try giving it a small amount of petroleum jelly. Most cats like the taste of petroleum jelly, so putting 1/4 teaspoon on your finger and allowing the cat to lick it off works well. If your cat isn't fond of the taste, you can put it on his front paw or under his nose, where he will lick himself while grooming. Do this once a day for four days, or until the hair ball passes.
Over the counter treatment. There are several over the counter treatments that help to lubricate hair balls and allow for easy passage. Many fussy cats who don't respond to petroleum jelly actually enjoy the tasty treatments.
Butter. One of the best treatments for hair balls is butter. Since cats love the taste of butter, this is an easy alternative to expensive, over the counter medications. Besides being a natural lubricant, butter makes the gall bladder contract and empty bile, making this a great, mild laxative for your pet. Give each cat 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of butter, once daily, for up to one week. Do not use this treatment with overweight or unhealthy animals.
WATCH THE SKIN
Cats with skin irritations tend to baby their fur and skin, thus inhaling and swallowing larger amounts of fur. If your pet exhibits signs of excessive itchiness or irritation, it may be time to check it for mange, fleas, or infection. Your veterinarian can help determine the cause of your cat's concern.
PLAY
Some cats lick out of sheer habit. For the hearty lickers, you can help distract them with games and toys. Compulsive licking and overgrooming can cause unnecessary stress to your cat, as well as the accumulation of hair in the stomach.
EMERGENCIES
While most hair balls are not cause for concern, sometimes things do get out of hand. Hair balls as large as 12 inches long have been found by some vets treating sick animals.
Even normal size hair balls can cause intestinal blockage or choking. If your cat retches for long periods of time or longer than three days, see a veterinarian. Consequently, if your pet refuses to eat, is constipated, or seems to be in pain, call your local animal hospital. A hair ball that blocks the digestive tract can be deadly, so it's important to act early.
Hair balls are a natural part of your cat's life. Overgrooming and skin irritation however, can lead to a very unhealthy obsession. Learn how to prevent and treat the common hair ball.
Cats often spend hours licking their coats and paws. Sometimes, therefore, too much hair can get trapped in a cat's stomach, thus causing hair balls.
THE MAKING OF A HAIR BALL
Hair balls form naturally in cats after days (and sometimes weeks or months) of grooming. Large accumulations of hair become trapped in the stomach because they are simply too big to pass through the digestive system. The more hair that enters the stomach at one time, the larger the wad becomes. Cats need to regurgitate, vomit, or cough up these balls of hair to prevent digestive blockages and disease.
PREVENTING HAIR BALLS
While it would be impossible to teach your pet not to groom itself, there are ways to work around hair balls.
THE FIBER FIXER
Sometimes a high fiber pet food is all it takes to accelerate the passage of a hair ball or alleviate hair balls altogether. When looking for high fiber foods, look for ones containing 3-10 percent fiber. The higher the fiber level, the less trouble your pet will have eliminating hair.
USE THE BRUSH
Brushing cats of stray hair won't stop them from their incessant need to clean, but it will help to cut down on the amount of hair they're swallowing each day. Cats shed hundreds of hairs each day, especially in spring and summer months. Long haired cats should be combed and brushed twice daily. Shorter haired cats should be brushed thoroughly every day.
USE MOISTURE
If you moisten a washcloth and wipe your cat following a brushing session, you'll attract whatever stray and loose hairs your combing and brushing missed. Moisten a paper towel or washcloth with lukewarm water and spend 60 seconds petting the hair away.
TREATING HAIR BALLS
Petroleum elixir. When your cat first begins hacking, try giving it a small amount of petroleum jelly. Most cats like the taste of petroleum jelly, so putting 1/4 teaspoon on your finger and allowing the cat to lick it off works well. If your cat isn't fond of the taste, you can put it on his front paw or under his nose, where he will lick himself while grooming. Do this once a day for four days, or until the hair ball passes.
Over the counter treatment. There are several over the counter treatments that help to lubricate hair balls and allow for easy passage. Many fussy cats who don't respond to petroleum jelly actually enjoy the tasty treatments.
Butter. One of the best treatments for hair balls is butter. Since cats love the taste of butter, this is an easy alternative to expensive, over the counter medications. Besides being a natural lubricant, butter makes the gall bladder contract and empty bile, making this a great, mild laxative for your pet. Give each cat 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of butter, once daily, for up to one week. Do not use this treatment with overweight or unhealthy animals.
WATCH THE SKIN
Cats with skin irritations tend to baby their fur and skin, thus inhaling and swallowing larger amounts of fur. If your pet exhibits signs of excessive itchiness or irritation, it may be time to check it for mange, fleas, or infection. Your veterinarian can help determine the cause of your cat's concern.
PLAY
Some cats lick out of sheer habit. For the hearty lickers, you can help distract them with games and toys. Compulsive licking and overgrooming can cause unnecessary stress to your cat, as well as the accumulation of hair in the stomach.
EMERGENCIES
While most hair balls are not cause for concern, sometimes things do get out of hand. Hair balls as large as 12 inches long have been found by some vets treating sick animals.
Even normal size hair balls can cause intestinal blockage or choking. If your cat retches for long periods of time or longer than three days, see a veterinarian. Consequently, if your pet refuses to eat, is constipated, or seems to be in pain, call your local animal hospital. A hair ball that blocks the digestive tract can be deadly, so it's important to act early.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Making A Multiple Cat Household
Making A Multiple Cat Household
Making a multiple cat household: learn how to smoothly combine cats from two different households into one without much trouble.
Your two cats have worked out who the boss is and who the low man on the totem pole is. Her cat has had several years of being the king of the household. That's all good and fine until you decide to move in together. What now? How do you get your cats to play nice with each other without ripping each other apart and your new home in the process? You can avoid all this by taking a few simple steps.
The common household cat is a relative of the great lions and tigers of the wild. And like those animals, they are very much into the "pecking order". Cats work in a hierarchal system where one cat will be the dominant alpha male and the rest of the cats go down the scale in order of importance. If you were to toss two different sets of cats together without any prep work, they would fight and clash to establish a new pecking order.
You need to establish a safe zone for each set of cats where they can't be seen by the other cats. In this example, my two cats were placed in one room and her cat was placed in another. This gave each of them a safe place to get used to the new surroundings while not having to worry about being attacked by the other cat. They could also get used to the smell of the other cat. This also allows them to claim that room as their "territory" and gives them a place to go that the other cat knows is their room. The first few days (up to a week) should be spent with the cats closed in their respective rooms.
When you finally open the doors and let the cats roam freely, there will be a lot of posturing and checking out of each other. There will most likely be hissing and some fighting. The cats will be establishing a new pecking order and trying to break them up would be a very bad idea. At this point you have to let the cats figure out amongst themselves who the boss is, but with the preparations you have taken it will greatly reduce the amount of tension and fighting your cats will go through.
Making a multiple cat household: learn how to smoothly combine cats from two different households into one without much trouble.
Your two cats have worked out who the boss is and who the low man on the totem pole is. Her cat has had several years of being the king of the household. That's all good and fine until you decide to move in together. What now? How do you get your cats to play nice with each other without ripping each other apart and your new home in the process? You can avoid all this by taking a few simple steps.
The common household cat is a relative of the great lions and tigers of the wild. And like those animals, they are very much into the "pecking order". Cats work in a hierarchal system where one cat will be the dominant alpha male and the rest of the cats go down the scale in order of importance. If you were to toss two different sets of cats together without any prep work, they would fight and clash to establish a new pecking order.
You need to establish a safe zone for each set of cats where they can't be seen by the other cats. In this example, my two cats were placed in one room and her cat was placed in another. This gave each of them a safe place to get used to the new surroundings while not having to worry about being attacked by the other cat. They could also get used to the smell of the other cat. This also allows them to claim that room as their "territory" and gives them a place to go that the other cat knows is their room. The first few days (up to a week) should be spent with the cats closed in their respective rooms.
When you finally open the doors and let the cats roam freely, there will be a lot of posturing and checking out of each other. There will most likely be hissing and some fighting. The cats will be establishing a new pecking order and trying to break them up would be a very bad idea. At this point you have to let the cats figure out amongst themselves who the boss is, but with the preparations you have taken it will greatly reduce the amount of tension and fighting your cats will go through.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis
Is your cat suffering from Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis? Find out what it is and what you can do to offer relief.
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR) is a highly contagious disease afflicting cats with a variety of symptoms related to the eyes, nose, and mouth. It is also known as Feline Herpes Virus Type I. Most cats who have received regular vaccinations will have been immunized against FVR through a combination vaccine for various upper respiratory diseases. Like the herpes virus in humans, FVR can never be completely cured. Because it is a viral disease rather than bacterial, antibiotics have no effect. Sometimes antibiotics will be used to fight secondary bacterial infections. In its most serious stages FVR can lead to ulceration of the cornea which can lead to blindness or pneumonia. Death is also a possibility because some cats with FVR experience a complete loss of appetite. However, the symptoms of FVR will lie in remission unless triggered by stress.
SYMPTOMS
The symptoms of Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis can include the following:
SUGGESTIONS FOR RELIEF
If your cat seems to have a loss of appetite, experiment with different types of dry and wet food. Sometimes your cat may have a partial loss of the sense of smell, and a more aromatic food will spark a better appetite. Try to prevent any unnecessary stress in your cat's life as this can trigger the symptoms of FVR. Also try the following holistic suggestions. All of these can be mixed in with your cat's food.
Is your cat suffering from Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis? Find out what it is and what you can do to offer relief.
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR) is a highly contagious disease afflicting cats with a variety of symptoms related to the eyes, nose, and mouth. It is also known as Feline Herpes Virus Type I. Most cats who have received regular vaccinations will have been immunized against FVR through a combination vaccine for various upper respiratory diseases. Like the herpes virus in humans, FVR can never be completely cured. Because it is a viral disease rather than bacterial, antibiotics have no effect. Sometimes antibiotics will be used to fight secondary bacterial infections. In its most serious stages FVR can lead to ulceration of the cornea which can lead to blindness or pneumonia. Death is also a possibility because some cats with FVR experience a complete loss of appetite. However, the symptoms of FVR will lie in remission unless triggered by stress.
SYMPTOMS
The symptoms of Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis can include the following:
- Sneezing
- Coughing
- Discharge from the nose and eyes
- Conjuntivitis (inflammation, swelling, and discharge from the inner eyelids)
- Sluggishness
- Fever
- Loss of appetite
- Ulcers in the lips, nose, and mouth
- Sensitivity to light
SUGGESTIONS FOR RELIEF
If your cat seems to have a loss of appetite, experiment with different types of dry and wet food. Sometimes your cat may have a partial loss of the sense of smell, and a more aromatic food will spark a better appetite. Try to prevent any unnecessary stress in your cat's life as this can trigger the symptoms of FVR. Also try the following holistic suggestions. All of these can be mixed in with your cat's food.
- Vitamin C crystals
- L-lysine: This can prevent ulcers.
- Omega 3 fatty acids
- Echinacea drops: Be sure to use the children's formula.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
How To Stop Your Cat From Scratching
How To Stop Your Cat From Scratching
Find out simple things you can do to keep your cat from scratching furniture and other items in your home.
Cats love to scratch! They clean and sharpen their claws by scratching. But they can ruin our furniture, carpets, and doorways. Here are a few tips to help stop your cat from doing what comes naturally.
You'll find that by using the tips above, your furniture, carpet and other items will stay in much better condition. And your cat won't be any worse for the wear, either.
Find out simple things you can do to keep your cat from scratching furniture and other items in your home.
Cats love to scratch! They clean and sharpen their claws by scratching. But they can ruin our furniture, carpets, and doorways. Here are a few tips to help stop your cat from doing what comes naturally.
- Provide a scratching post or another item for your cat to scratch. They come as pieces of wood covered with carpet and corrugated material attached to wood. You can buy a scratching post at your pet store…they come in many colors and sizes. You can also make your own scratching post very easily. Take a piece of a 4x4 wooden beam, buy a carpet sample, and attach it to a plywood base. While many store bought scratching posts have plush carpet on them, realize that many cats don't like to scratch on this type of carpet when you're choosing one to buy.
- Show your cat how the post is used by doing it yourself in the cat's presence. This may sound silly, but it works! After you do it, the cat will go to it and smell your scent, then it will leave it's own scent.
- Always praise your cat when it scratches on something that's okay.
- You can say "No!" to your cat when you see it scratching an unwanted item.
- You can spray Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange on items that you don't want your cats to scratch. You can find these products at your local pet store.
- You can put pepper, either cayenne or black on items you don't want your cat to scratch.
- Put tape that's sticky on both sides will also work sometimes.
You'll find that by using the tips above, your furniture, carpet and other items will stay in much better condition. And your cat won't be any worse for the wear, either.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Cats And Baby Dangers
Cats And Baby Dangers
Keep baby safe by keeping the cat out of the crib. A cat in baby's crib can pose a danger and a health hazard.
There is an old myth that cats can climb into cribs and "suck the air" out of babies. While this is generally considered an old wives' tale, it may have a basis in fact. Cats are either cuddly creatures or aloof pets, depending on their temperament. Cuddly creatures enjoy snuggling up to other cuddly creatures, including babies. Since very young infants are incapable of turning their heads or moving their bodies away from the cat, the danger of suffocation does exist. Additionally, some babies may be sensitive to cat hair or dander, both of which will be deposited on the sheets when your cat naps.
So how do you keep the cat out of the crib?
During pregnancy, you can start preparing your home (and your cat) for the introduction of the new family member. Be very consistent about keeping the cat out of the baby's crib. Resist the temptation to put the sheets and crib blanket on just yet cats love to curl up on beds and new places. Conversely, most cats despise plastic and will not lie on the uncovered, plastic mattress.
If you've already caught your feline drowsing in the crib, take steps to prevent it from happening again. Placing soda cans or inflated balloons in the crib will deliver a shock the first time she jumps in, and probably keep her from returning. You can also try placing double-sided tape on the mattress, which annoys cats. Keep the room relatively cool cats prefer warmth and allow your cat to explore the nursery while maintaining the crib as an off-limits area.
While keeping the door closed will work as a short-term measure, keep in mind that this may only heighten your cat's natural curiosity and make her even more eager to explore the treasures behind the closed door.
Squirt bottles of water are a tried and true technique for teaching your cats certain behaviors are off-limits. Keep the bottle handy and squirt the cat when you catch her in the crib. Be careful, however, that you don't spray the cat when she gets near the baby: like toddlers, cats are natural explorers and curious about their surroundings. Allow your cat to familiarize herself with the baby. When your bundle of joy becomes a bundle of energy, your cat will be more accustomed to him as a family member, instead of an untouchable object.
If you've tried these measures and they haven't worked, or you're looking for a little extra reassurance, many child safety companies and baby stores sell "tents" that you can position over the crib to keep the cat from jumping in. You can use these tents for several months, until your baby is able to turn over or thrash about on her own. Cats hate having their sleep disturbed and most likely won't want to cuddle with a wriggly baby.
Once your infant is old enough to take an interest in the cat, teach her how to befriend the cat by being a good role model. Never hit your cat or pull her tail, even in fun; this teaches children that animal abuse is an acceptable behavior. Early on, allow her to pet the cat (if Kitty will allow it) with short, soft strokes and simple, repetitious words, such as "Pet nice" or "Nice kitty."
Although cats themselves rarely pose any danger to infants, it's always a good idea to keep a close watch when baby and kitty are together. Infants are unable to grasp basic concepts of "nice" and "not nice," while toddlers may gleefully pull on a cat's tail just to see what happens. Watch out for cat bites and scratches – clean them thoroughly and contact your pediatrician should this happen. Spay or neuter your cat before the baby comes; this will reduce many aggressive behaviors and help prevent your cat from urinating on baby's belongings or on the carpet.
Don't forget one of the most important aspects of pet ownership: love your cat. Continue to provide affection and attention to your feline, so she doesn't feel "pushed out" by the baby and exhibit aggressiveness toward him. Establish a personal space for your cat out of the baby's reach a new bed, a high perch, a soft blanket atop a dresser – so that she has a place to "escape" from the stresses of baby.
Keep baby safe by keeping the cat out of the crib. A cat in baby's crib can pose a danger and a health hazard.
There is an old myth that cats can climb into cribs and "suck the air" out of babies. While this is generally considered an old wives' tale, it may have a basis in fact. Cats are either cuddly creatures or aloof pets, depending on their temperament. Cuddly creatures enjoy snuggling up to other cuddly creatures, including babies. Since very young infants are incapable of turning their heads or moving their bodies away from the cat, the danger of suffocation does exist. Additionally, some babies may be sensitive to cat hair or dander, both of which will be deposited on the sheets when your cat naps.
So how do you keep the cat out of the crib?
During pregnancy, you can start preparing your home (and your cat) for the introduction of the new family member. Be very consistent about keeping the cat out of the baby's crib. Resist the temptation to put the sheets and crib blanket on just yet cats love to curl up on beds and new places. Conversely, most cats despise plastic and will not lie on the uncovered, plastic mattress.
If you've already caught your feline drowsing in the crib, take steps to prevent it from happening again. Placing soda cans or inflated balloons in the crib will deliver a shock the first time she jumps in, and probably keep her from returning. You can also try placing double-sided tape on the mattress, which annoys cats. Keep the room relatively cool cats prefer warmth and allow your cat to explore the nursery while maintaining the crib as an off-limits area.
While keeping the door closed will work as a short-term measure, keep in mind that this may only heighten your cat's natural curiosity and make her even more eager to explore the treasures behind the closed door.
Squirt bottles of water are a tried and true technique for teaching your cats certain behaviors are off-limits. Keep the bottle handy and squirt the cat when you catch her in the crib. Be careful, however, that you don't spray the cat when she gets near the baby: like toddlers, cats are natural explorers and curious about their surroundings. Allow your cat to familiarize herself with the baby. When your bundle of joy becomes a bundle of energy, your cat will be more accustomed to him as a family member, instead of an untouchable object.
If you've tried these measures and they haven't worked, or you're looking for a little extra reassurance, many child safety companies and baby stores sell "tents" that you can position over the crib to keep the cat from jumping in. You can use these tents for several months, until your baby is able to turn over or thrash about on her own. Cats hate having their sleep disturbed and most likely won't want to cuddle with a wriggly baby.
Once your infant is old enough to take an interest in the cat, teach her how to befriend the cat by being a good role model. Never hit your cat or pull her tail, even in fun; this teaches children that animal abuse is an acceptable behavior. Early on, allow her to pet the cat (if Kitty will allow it) with short, soft strokes and simple, repetitious words, such as "Pet nice" or "Nice kitty."
Although cats themselves rarely pose any danger to infants, it's always a good idea to keep a close watch when baby and kitty are together. Infants are unable to grasp basic concepts of "nice" and "not nice," while toddlers may gleefully pull on a cat's tail just to see what happens. Watch out for cat bites and scratches – clean them thoroughly and contact your pediatrician should this happen. Spay or neuter your cat before the baby comes; this will reduce many aggressive behaviors and help prevent your cat from urinating on baby's belongings or on the carpet.
Don't forget one of the most important aspects of pet ownership: love your cat. Continue to provide affection and attention to your feline, so she doesn't feel "pushed out" by the baby and exhibit aggressiveness toward him. Establish a personal space for your cat out of the baby's reach a new bed, a high perch, a soft blanket atop a dresser – so that she has a place to "escape" from the stresses of baby.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Toxic Plants And Cats
Toxic Plants And Cats
What plants can be toxic to cats? Why? What should you do if you think your cat might have eaten from a toxic plant?
Any cat owner will tell you that most cats possess an instinctive nature that makes them cause trouble. But keeping your cat from eating certain household plants is a precaution that may help save your garden, as well as your cat's life.
Which plants are toxic?
Unfortunately, there is a long list of plants that are toxic to cats. Here is only a partial list of plants that might otherwise not seem so deadly:
How can you keep your cats from eating toxic plants?
Keeping your cat out of any type of mischief is a daunting task. However, you can take measures to place the plants out of your cat's reach. This might involve putting them on tall stands or hanging them from the ceiling. But if your plants are outside, then you must find a way to confine them from your cat's roaming premises. Some owners provide their cats with their own outdoor playing area that is free of any hazardous objects. Another option is to spray your plants with water, then lightly sprinkle pepper on them. Your plants will not be harmed, but your cat will be deterred by the irritating scent.
What should you do if you think your cat might have eaten from a toxic plant?
If you have any suspicion that your cat may have ingested something toxic, act immediately. Symptoms of poisoning include foaming at the mouth, seizures and vomiting. But don't wait for your cat to show symptoms of being sick, your ability to act immediately could save your cat's life.
What plants can be toxic to cats? Why? What should you do if you think your cat might have eaten from a toxic plant?
Any cat owner will tell you that most cats possess an instinctive nature that makes them cause trouble. But keeping your cat from eating certain household plants is a precaution that may help save your garden, as well as your cat's life.
Which plants are toxic?
Unfortunately, there is a long list of plants that are toxic to cats. Here is only a partial list of plants that might otherwise not seem so deadly:
- Aloe Vera
- Azaleas
- Bird of Paradise
- Calla Lily
- Chrysanthemum
- Creeping Fig
- Crown of Thorns
- Daffodil
- Elephant Ears
- English Holly
- Iris
- Many forms of Ivy
- Majesty
- Mistletoe
- Poinsettia
- Pot mum
- Saddleleaf
- Spider mums
- Tulips
- Umbrella plants
- Many forms of Vines
How can you keep your cats from eating toxic plants?
Keeping your cat out of any type of mischief is a daunting task. However, you can take measures to place the plants out of your cat's reach. This might involve putting them on tall stands or hanging them from the ceiling. But if your plants are outside, then you must find a way to confine them from your cat's roaming premises. Some owners provide their cats with their own outdoor playing area that is free of any hazardous objects. Another option is to spray your plants with water, then lightly sprinkle pepper on them. Your plants will not be harmed, but your cat will be deterred by the irritating scent.
What should you do if you think your cat might have eaten from a toxic plant?
If you have any suspicion that your cat may have ingested something toxic, act immediately. Symptoms of poisoning include foaming at the mouth, seizures and vomiting. But don't wait for your cat to show symptoms of being sick, your ability to act immediately could save your cat's life.
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Treating Hairballs In Cats
Treating Hairballs In Cats
Methods of preventing and curing hairball problems in cats.
Hairballs are probably the most common health problem in cats. They are usually diagnosed by the pet owner when the cat begins vomiting after meals. Surprisingly enough, rabbits and ferrets are also prone to hairballs.
The problem begins when cats ingest hair as they groom themselves. Felines that groom obsessively (and those with long hair) usually consume the most hair.
In the normal digestive process, food and other consumables are moved through the gastrointestinal tract by muscular contractions. Food is broken down by stomach acids and the waste products are moved along to the intestines. Masses of hair, however, may remain in the stomach. The hair can't be digested and sometimes, for whatever reason, it is not moved along as waste. Sometimes it blocks the passage of food through the digestive system, causing the cat to vomit soon after eating.
Hairballs can also cause constipation and coughing. In some instances, an impacted hairball, left untreated, can result in the animal's death. Cats with long hair should be monitored closely if they begin showing signs of hairballs.
Here are some methods for treating hairballs.
BRUSHING. This is largely a preventive measure. A daily brushing will remove much of the loose hair in your pet's coat, leaving that much less for the animal to ingest. Many cats will enjoy being groomed and it can serve as a bonding experience between the pet and pet owner.
DIET. Some vets believe that commercial pet foods contribute to the hairball problem, pointing out that cats who are fed natural foods are less prone to suffer problems. This may be partially true. Cats who are fed oily fish like salmon or tuna are probably likely to benefit the fish oils act as a lubricant, helping the ingested hair to move smoothly through the body and be eliminated. Adding more oil to your pet's diet is something to consider.
COMMERCIAL REMEDIES. Available in pet departments, these hairball remedies usually come in tubes. They also have a lubricating action on the hairball. Most brands claim to be highly palatable and suggest you allow the cat to lick its daily dose from a spoon. Many cats, however, will turn up their noses at commercial remedies. It may be necessary to force it into the cat's mouth or to add it to the pet's food (instructions on the product usually recommend administering on an empty stomach, but the product will still benefit the animal when give with food).
Once a hairball is diagnosed, there are usually two stages in curing it remedy and maintenance. If you are administering a commercially prepared medicine, you will have to start out with somewhat large, frequent doses to get rid of the hairballs already present. During the maintenance stage, you can decrease the size and the frequency of the doses, as you are really trying to prevent a relapse. It's wise to continue some amount of maintenance dosing indefinitely, as your cat will never become immune to hairballs.
Methods of preventing and curing hairball problems in cats.
Hairballs are probably the most common health problem in cats. They are usually diagnosed by the pet owner when the cat begins vomiting after meals. Surprisingly enough, rabbits and ferrets are also prone to hairballs.
The problem begins when cats ingest hair as they groom themselves. Felines that groom obsessively (and those with long hair) usually consume the most hair.
In the normal digestive process, food and other consumables are moved through the gastrointestinal tract by muscular contractions. Food is broken down by stomach acids and the waste products are moved along to the intestines. Masses of hair, however, may remain in the stomach. The hair can't be digested and sometimes, for whatever reason, it is not moved along as waste. Sometimes it blocks the passage of food through the digestive system, causing the cat to vomit soon after eating.
Hairballs can also cause constipation and coughing. In some instances, an impacted hairball, left untreated, can result in the animal's death. Cats with long hair should be monitored closely if they begin showing signs of hairballs.
Here are some methods for treating hairballs.
BRUSHING. This is largely a preventive measure. A daily brushing will remove much of the loose hair in your pet's coat, leaving that much less for the animal to ingest. Many cats will enjoy being groomed and it can serve as a bonding experience between the pet and pet owner.
DIET. Some vets believe that commercial pet foods contribute to the hairball problem, pointing out that cats who are fed natural foods are less prone to suffer problems. This may be partially true. Cats who are fed oily fish like salmon or tuna are probably likely to benefit the fish oils act as a lubricant, helping the ingested hair to move smoothly through the body and be eliminated. Adding more oil to your pet's diet is something to consider.
COMMERCIAL REMEDIES. Available in pet departments, these hairball remedies usually come in tubes. They also have a lubricating action on the hairball. Most brands claim to be highly palatable and suggest you allow the cat to lick its daily dose from a spoon. Many cats, however, will turn up their noses at commercial remedies. It may be necessary to force it into the cat's mouth or to add it to the pet's food (instructions on the product usually recommend administering on an empty stomach, but the product will still benefit the animal when give with food).
Once a hairball is diagnosed, there are usually two stages in curing it remedy and maintenance. If you are administering a commercially prepared medicine, you will have to start out with somewhat large, frequent doses to get rid of the hairballs already present. During the maintenance stage, you can decrease the size and the frequency of the doses, as you are really trying to prevent a relapse. It's wise to continue some amount of maintenance dosing indefinitely, as your cat will never become immune to hairballs.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Cats And Separation Anxiety
Cats And Separation Anxiety
Cats and separation anxiety: Find out how to make your departure less stressful on your cat, if you are leaving for the day or a whole week.
Leaving for work every morning is hard enough without having your cat sit by the door and scowl at you; this can be very intimidating and not what you need before heading to work. As soon as you hit the shower, Socks instinctively knows that you will not be staying home to play today, and he starts displaying whatever wacko behavior he is famous for. It might be scratching on the bed to get your attention, hiding from you because he does not want to face the hard truth, yowling at the top of his lungs or just looking very depressed. It becomes worse when you get your suitcases out. Your cat may be in denial and play in them until he realizes you actually are going somewhere with them. I had to learn the hard way because my cat is less independent than most cats and he loves attention. The first day I left him alone when he was a kitten, he cried so much that he got sick.
I have found that cats are instinctively creatures of habit, and love routine. The problem is, we, as humans, are inconsistent and as slaves to artificial time, we have lost a sense of natural flow in our lives (well, that is at least what my cat tells me, he may be biased though). As we comprise and create our cat's natural environment, the things we do, our habits, schedules etc., dictate his natural sense of time. We are like clocks. While we cannot really get out of bed at the exact time every morning, whatever we do after getting out of bed is actually the starting point for our cat's own natural clock. They can decipher whether you will be staying or going within a few seconds, and that is how they work sleeping and eating around your departure and schedule their sleeping and eating for the rest of the day.
But who can sleep and eat (or maybe just sleep) under so much stress? Being consistent with what you do with your cat before you go to work can help reduce his stress level. I like to feed my cat at night before I go to bed and in the morning when I wake up. This diverts his attention from the fact that I will be leaving, and makes him happy every morning. Then, while he is eating, I can sneak into the shower without him realizing. Also, by feeding your cat on a regular schedule, this helps him with his own natural clock and makes him feel more comfortable about your departure. This is a constant factor in the more inconsistent scheme of things and cats crave routine and consistency. If your cat is not overweight, you should leave out dry food for him to nibble on throughout the day, but what cats really want is in the can. However, having food out all the time also makes cats feel at ease. When cats know exactly when they will be fed everyday their stress level will decrease -- they know they are not fed while you are away and food is an important part of their lives. You might be coming and going at all different times, but feeding is always right on schedule.
When you go on a long vacation, you will want to have someone take care of Socks who can simulate his feeding schedule as closely as possible. So, if you feed him in the morning and night, try to have someone come over and do that for you. It is even better to have someone stay at your house, rather than come and go -- cats are sensitive creatures you know. While they may not act as if they care, they do! The more their daily lives stay the same, the less stressed they will be about you not being there.
While food is an important factor in this, they do care about you for other reasons too. Some other things I have done in the past are leaving the TV on (they like Animal Planet), or keep the radio on. The human voices they hear on the television and radio remind them of you and are soothing. Also, leave out some favorite toys near the water or food dishes (some place they frequent often). If you know where your cat sleeps most often, leave out an old, dirty shirt (it must be dirty) in the place where he sleeps. Your cat will recognize your smell on it and that familiar scent will make him more comfortable. Also, try to wake up just a few minutes every day and set aside about 10 minutes in the morning to pet or play with your cat before you leave. Because my cat is always near, I just talk to him while I get ready (it is quite a sight). He also thinks when I go from one room to the other that I am playing with him, so he stays content. You can also pet and play with your cat right when you get home, although it always seems like there are so many things to do just set aside about 10 minutes seems like a lot. Because my cat is so outgoing, I cannot help but pay attention to him, but with a more introverted cat, you might have to go searching for him.
Lastly, if you are really crazy (who isn't), you can call during the day and leave a message for your cat on the answering machine. Reassure him that you will be home soon in that high voice he so adores. My cat will actually talk to me on the phone. While you cannot train a cat (well, they are not dogs), you can easily divert their attention from the fact that you will be leaving, and while you are gone you can make them feel more at ease.
Cats and separation anxiety: Find out how to make your departure less stressful on your cat, if you are leaving for the day or a whole week.
Leaving for work every morning is hard enough without having your cat sit by the door and scowl at you; this can be very intimidating and not what you need before heading to work. As soon as you hit the shower, Socks instinctively knows that you will not be staying home to play today, and he starts displaying whatever wacko behavior he is famous for. It might be scratching on the bed to get your attention, hiding from you because he does not want to face the hard truth, yowling at the top of his lungs or just looking very depressed. It becomes worse when you get your suitcases out. Your cat may be in denial and play in them until he realizes you actually are going somewhere with them. I had to learn the hard way because my cat is less independent than most cats and he loves attention. The first day I left him alone when he was a kitten, he cried so much that he got sick.
I have found that cats are instinctively creatures of habit, and love routine. The problem is, we, as humans, are inconsistent and as slaves to artificial time, we have lost a sense of natural flow in our lives (well, that is at least what my cat tells me, he may be biased though). As we comprise and create our cat's natural environment, the things we do, our habits, schedules etc., dictate his natural sense of time. We are like clocks. While we cannot really get out of bed at the exact time every morning, whatever we do after getting out of bed is actually the starting point for our cat's own natural clock. They can decipher whether you will be staying or going within a few seconds, and that is how they work sleeping and eating around your departure and schedule their sleeping and eating for the rest of the day.
But who can sleep and eat (or maybe just sleep) under so much stress? Being consistent with what you do with your cat before you go to work can help reduce his stress level. I like to feed my cat at night before I go to bed and in the morning when I wake up. This diverts his attention from the fact that I will be leaving, and makes him happy every morning. Then, while he is eating, I can sneak into the shower without him realizing. Also, by feeding your cat on a regular schedule, this helps him with his own natural clock and makes him feel more comfortable about your departure. This is a constant factor in the more inconsistent scheme of things and cats crave routine and consistency. If your cat is not overweight, you should leave out dry food for him to nibble on throughout the day, but what cats really want is in the can. However, having food out all the time also makes cats feel at ease. When cats know exactly when they will be fed everyday their stress level will decrease -- they know they are not fed while you are away and food is an important part of their lives. You might be coming and going at all different times, but feeding is always right on schedule.
When you go on a long vacation, you will want to have someone take care of Socks who can simulate his feeding schedule as closely as possible. So, if you feed him in the morning and night, try to have someone come over and do that for you. It is even better to have someone stay at your house, rather than come and go -- cats are sensitive creatures you know. While they may not act as if they care, they do! The more their daily lives stay the same, the less stressed they will be about you not being there.
While food is an important factor in this, they do care about you for other reasons too. Some other things I have done in the past are leaving the TV on (they like Animal Planet), or keep the radio on. The human voices they hear on the television and radio remind them of you and are soothing. Also, leave out some favorite toys near the water or food dishes (some place they frequent often). If you know where your cat sleeps most often, leave out an old, dirty shirt (it must be dirty) in the place where he sleeps. Your cat will recognize your smell on it and that familiar scent will make him more comfortable. Also, try to wake up just a few minutes every day and set aside about 10 minutes in the morning to pet or play with your cat before you leave. Because my cat is always near, I just talk to him while I get ready (it is quite a sight). He also thinks when I go from one room to the other that I am playing with him, so he stays content. You can also pet and play with your cat right when you get home, although it always seems like there are so many things to do just set aside about 10 minutes seems like a lot. Because my cat is so outgoing, I cannot help but pay attention to him, but with a more introverted cat, you might have to go searching for him.
Lastly, if you are really crazy (who isn't), you can call during the day and leave a message for your cat on the answering machine. Reassure him that you will be home soon in that high voice he so adores. My cat will actually talk to me on the phone. While you cannot train a cat (well, they are not dogs), you can easily divert their attention from the fact that you will be leaving, and while you are gone you can make them feel more at ease.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Cat Tooth Problems
Cat Tooth Problems
Cat tooth problems occur in older cats. How can you prevent your cats from acquiring tooth diseases?
Studies estimate that 70 percent of cats three years or older exhibit signs of gum disease. Unfortunately dental problems left unchecked can lead to heart, liver and kidney diseases.
What kinds of dental diseases do cats get?
What are the symptoms of dental diseases in cats?
Behavior differences are often the best method of detecting dental problems in cats. Irritability, aggressiveness, depression or reclusiveness is often observed. Along with halitosis, their gums may bleed easily, and they may stop grooming adequately. A typical scenario would be a cat that runs up to their food dish as though they are very hungry, yet they will run away from the dish because the eating is so painful.
How do you care and prevent dental diseases in cats?
You can help your cat avoid dental disease with the following procedures on a daily basis.
While dental disease is a very serious problem for cats, with a few simple prevention techniques you can severely decrease your pet's chance of ailments. Consult your vet regularly about how you can maintain your cat's dental hygiene and make sure to watch closely for symptoms.
Cat tooth problems occur in older cats. How can you prevent your cats from acquiring tooth diseases?
Studies estimate that 70 percent of cats three years or older exhibit signs of gum disease. Unfortunately dental problems left unchecked can lead to heart, liver and kidney diseases.
What kinds of dental diseases do cats get?
- Plaque: Cats don't typically get cavities, but they are susceptible to plaque caused by food and bacteria build up along the gums. Routine brushing can help.
- Tartar: If plaque is not removed it may form tartar. It typically takes 3-5 days. When this occurs, it is necessary to remove the tartar with special instrumentation. Buildup can lead to both gingivitis (inflammation of the gums) and stomatitis (inflammation of the mucous membranes). Both diseases are treatable but if left unchecked may necessitate tooth extraction, etc.
- Periodontal Disease: Another complication unchecked tartar causes is tartar under the gums. "Pockets" of bacteria form and the damage is irreversible. This occurrence is called periodontal disease, which is very painful and leads to tooth loss, abscesses, and bone loss or infection. Eventually this bacterium may also be absorbed into the blood stream. At this point the bacteria may infect the heart, liver, kidney, or a number of other internal organs.
What are the symptoms of dental diseases in cats?
Behavior differences are often the best method of detecting dental problems in cats. Irritability, aggressiveness, depression or reclusiveness is often observed. Along with halitosis, their gums may bleed easily, and they may stop grooming adequately. A typical scenario would be a cat that runs up to their food dish as though they are very hungry, yet they will run away from the dish because the eating is so painful.
How do you care and prevent dental diseases in cats?
You can help your cat avoid dental disease with the following procedures on a daily basis.
- Simply look for the warning signs of gum disease such as bad breath, discolored gums, tartar, or a crust around the gum line. Also, be sure to look for discolored, fractured, or missing teeth. Touch the cat's gums and note any pain or bleeding. If any of these symptoms are detected, or any bumps or masses within the mouth are present check with your vet as to how to respond.
- Regularly brushing your cat's teeth can immensely help fight gum disease, ask your vet to explain this procedure.
- Studies have indicated that harder food is better at keeping plaque away.
While dental disease is a very serious problem for cats, with a few simple prevention techniques you can severely decrease your pet's chance of ailments. Consult your vet regularly about how you can maintain your cat's dental hygiene and make sure to watch closely for symptoms.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Aggressive Cat Help
Aggressive Cat Help
Cats can display aggressive behavior for many reasons. Learning why your cat bites or scratches is the best way to stop it.
When a cat displays aggressive behavior, it is important to find out why. Some aggressive behavior should be expected. If a cat feels its in danger or is protecting its territory, you should be prepared for some hissing or biting. But when your cat lashes out for no apparent reason, you have got to get to the bottom of it. The unwanted behavior will continue unless the source is dealt with.
There are several reasons why a cat could suddenly exhibit aggressive behavior. In all cases, it is important to have your cat examined by a veterinarian. If a cat is injured or ill, it could lead to aggressive behavior. Picking up a cat that is injured could cause the pain that makes them lash out. Visiting a veterinarian is the first step. They will be able to give you advice and also determine if a health problem is the cause of the behavior.
In some cases, simple boredom is the cause of aggressiveness. Indoor cats have to find an outlet to release energy and some do it through aggressive behavior. Making sure your cat has plenty of enticing toys available is one solution. You should also spend some time each day exercising the cat through play. Dangle a ribbon or throw a small ball. Helping them exert their energy will leave less for them to take out on you. In all cases, never use your hands to play with your cat. This basically gives them permission to bite or scratch you and this is exactly what we are trying to avoid.
Sometimes adding a playmate is the best solution of all. Cats are social animals and though it may take some adjustments, they enjoy company. You will find that the cats use most of their energy playing "cat games" with one another. It is still important to give each cat individual attention. Cats can display classic sibling rivalry behavior and the original cat especially must not feel like it is being outshone.
If no health problems have been found and all efforts have been made to entertain the cat, simple behavioral training may be needed. Some basics are to always reprimand the cat when it bites or scratches. This should never include striking the cat. A firm "No!" with a tap on the nose may be all that is needed.
Some owners actually encourage their cats to continue aggressive behavior without knowing it. It is instinctive to pull our hand away if a cat is biting or scratching it, but they see this as encouragement, similar to the natural stalker vs. prey incidents. However, experts say it is best to let the hand go limp and firmly say "No" until the cat releases it grip. It is then best to ignore the cat until normal behavior resumes. The cat will soon learn that it will receive no attention acting badly.
Other tactics include distraction. Some owners find that changing the scenario all together stops the unwanted behavior. Many keep a bottle of water handy and give the cat a squirt when it starts to bite. Others keep a small toy available and throw it to divert attention when the cat is attacking.
Just as humans can have chemical imbalances, so can animals. If all attempts have failed, make another appointment with the vet. Extreme cases of aggressiveness sometimes need to be treated with medication. However, this should be the last resort and should not be done out of mere laziness. Having a pet is a big responsibility and they will do things that anger us. Do not go with the quick fix,immediately. Some medications merely sedate the pet and should only be used in extreme cases.
Cats can display aggressive behavior for many reasons. Learning why your cat bites or scratches is the best way to stop it.
When a cat displays aggressive behavior, it is important to find out why. Some aggressive behavior should be expected. If a cat feels its in danger or is protecting its territory, you should be prepared for some hissing or biting. But when your cat lashes out for no apparent reason, you have got to get to the bottom of it. The unwanted behavior will continue unless the source is dealt with.
There are several reasons why a cat could suddenly exhibit aggressive behavior. In all cases, it is important to have your cat examined by a veterinarian. If a cat is injured or ill, it could lead to aggressive behavior. Picking up a cat that is injured could cause the pain that makes them lash out. Visiting a veterinarian is the first step. They will be able to give you advice and also determine if a health problem is the cause of the behavior.
In some cases, simple boredom is the cause of aggressiveness. Indoor cats have to find an outlet to release energy and some do it through aggressive behavior. Making sure your cat has plenty of enticing toys available is one solution. You should also spend some time each day exercising the cat through play. Dangle a ribbon or throw a small ball. Helping them exert their energy will leave less for them to take out on you. In all cases, never use your hands to play with your cat. This basically gives them permission to bite or scratch you and this is exactly what we are trying to avoid.
Sometimes adding a playmate is the best solution of all. Cats are social animals and though it may take some adjustments, they enjoy company. You will find that the cats use most of their energy playing "cat games" with one another. It is still important to give each cat individual attention. Cats can display classic sibling rivalry behavior and the original cat especially must not feel like it is being outshone.
If no health problems have been found and all efforts have been made to entertain the cat, simple behavioral training may be needed. Some basics are to always reprimand the cat when it bites or scratches. This should never include striking the cat. A firm "No!" with a tap on the nose may be all that is needed.
Some owners actually encourage their cats to continue aggressive behavior without knowing it. It is instinctive to pull our hand away if a cat is biting or scratching it, but they see this as encouragement, similar to the natural stalker vs. prey incidents. However, experts say it is best to let the hand go limp and firmly say "No" until the cat releases it grip. It is then best to ignore the cat until normal behavior resumes. The cat will soon learn that it will receive no attention acting badly.
Other tactics include distraction. Some owners find that changing the scenario all together stops the unwanted behavior. Many keep a bottle of water handy and give the cat a squirt when it starts to bite. Others keep a small toy available and throw it to divert attention when the cat is attacking.
Just as humans can have chemical imbalances, so can animals. If all attempts have failed, make another appointment with the vet. Extreme cases of aggressiveness sometimes need to be treated with medication. However, this should be the last resort and should not be done out of mere laziness. Having a pet is a big responsibility and they will do things that anger us. Do not go with the quick fix,immediately. Some medications merely sedate the pet and should only be used in extreme cases.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Understanding A Cat Show
Understanding A Cat Show
Ever wonder just what a cat show is all about? How does a judge compare cats? Can any cat enter these feline beauty pageants?
A cat show is like a beauty pageant for felines. Every breed has unique characteristics that set it apart from other breeds and established standards set the ideal for perfection in these characteristics. A cat show seeks out the quality example of each breed or class.
A cat show is an elimination tournament. No matter how many different breeds or total cats begin, only one can reign as the best cat in he show.
There are numerous cat associations with show rules that vary to some extent. These rules, however, can be discussed in general to give a brief picture of what is going on at a cat show.
There are two types of cat shows. One is the All Breed and the other is the Specialty Show. Specialty shows are usually limited to one of the major cat divisions such as Longhair or Shorthair. In the All-breed shows the various breeds are divided into classes and subdivisions.
There are usually at least four judges to a show. Each judge is provided with a table and about ten cat cages. This area is known as the ring. The judge has no previous knowledge of the cats he will judge other than their catalog listing. No spectator or handler is permitted to speak to a judge while he is judging.
When a judge wishes to see a particular cat in this ring, that cat's catalog number is placed on one of the cages. The cat's exhibitor places the cat in the cage for judging. Although different cat associations have varying standards, usually the cat is awarded points for:
Some classes for showing are
Ever wonder just what a cat show is all about? How does a judge compare cats? Can any cat enter these feline beauty pageants?
A cat show is like a beauty pageant for felines. Every breed has unique characteristics that set it apart from other breeds and established standards set the ideal for perfection in these characteristics. A cat show seeks out the quality example of each breed or class.
A cat show is an elimination tournament. No matter how many different breeds or total cats begin, only one can reign as the best cat in he show.
There are numerous cat associations with show rules that vary to some extent. These rules, however, can be discussed in general to give a brief picture of what is going on at a cat show.
There are two types of cat shows. One is the All Breed and the other is the Specialty Show. Specialty shows are usually limited to one of the major cat divisions such as Longhair or Shorthair. In the All-breed shows the various breeds are divided into classes and subdivisions.
There are usually at least four judges to a show. Each judge is provided with a table and about ten cat cages. This area is known as the ring. The judge has no previous knowledge of the cats he will judge other than their catalog listing. No spectator or handler is permitted to speak to a judge while he is judging.
When a judge wishes to see a particular cat in this ring, that cat's catalog number is placed on one of the cages. The cat's exhibitor places the cat in the cage for judging. Although different cat associations have varying standards, usually the cat is awarded points for:
- shape of head and ears
- shape and color of eyes
- structure of body, tail, feet, and legs
- texture and color of coat
- overall condition
Some classes for showing are
- Championship class: Cat must be eight months of age or older. The cats must be registered and of a breed recognized for championship show. This varies.
- Alter class :Cat must be eight months, be registered, and a breed recognized for championship show, either neutered or spayed.
- Any-other-variety classes: For cats not recognized by championships shows. They cannot win championships.
- Kitten class: Cats from four to eight months who are registered and of a breed recognized by championship shows, but they cannot earn championships.
- Household pet class: Are for unregistered cats of unrecognized breeds.
Monday, January 5, 2009
Tips For Travel With A Cat
Tips For Travel With A Cat
How to travel with your cat. Cats can be good travelers, especially if they become accustomed to travel at an early age.
Although cats are generally homebodies, they can be good travelers if they become accustomed to traveling while they are kittens. If your plans include being away from home for an extended period of time, you may find it more convenient to take your cat with you. The trip can be pleasant for you both if you take some precautions.
Always make sure the cat is in good health before a trip. If necessary, take him to the veterinarian to make sure and to get any necessary inoculations.
Purchase a carrying case, if you don't already own one. They are available in many sizes and styles at pet stores and at some veterinarian offices. The case must be strong enough so the cat cannot claw or chew his way out of it, and it must have enough air holes and space for the cat's comfort and health.
If you are traveling by car, several short trips before the long trip might help the cat become accustomed to a long one. Never let the cat loose in the car. It is just asking for trouble, but you can talk and comfort the cat while on the road. If the trip is by car but less than eight hours, there is no need for a litter box. An old metal lid or cardboard box kept in the trunk will work for longer trips. You can also purchase disposable litter boxes. Water is always required, but food may be held back for short trips. Harnesses are available and the litter box can be kept in the trunk. Never let the cat loose in a strange place without a restraint. There is always a chance the cat might become frightened and escape. Before travel check to find out if cats are permitted in motels and hotels. If not, offer to pay for damages. Never leave any pet locked in a car.
With railroads and airlines, check for regulations about traveling with a cat before leaving. Cats are sometimes permitted in a compartment with you on trains, however, usually it is required that they be kept in a carrying case in the baggage car.
Airlines normally require cats to be kept in carrying cases in the pressurized luggage compartment. Flying is usually easier because of the speed of flight. Non-stop flights are preferred and reduce the possibility of a mess-up in baggage delivery when planes are changed in multi-flight arrangements. Also, avoid peak travel times when more mistakes can be made. Avoid traveling when it is extremely hot or cold since the cat may have to wait, unprotected, for personnel to move it out of this discomfort.
It is advised you insure your cat. Insured, your cat is more likely to be treated as a valuable animal by airline personnel and be delivered to you with more care and promptness. Do not try to tranquilize your cat unless you and the veterinarian have decided previously on the proper medication and dosage. If there is a mistake and your cat is not delivered, immediately contact airport personnel since your cat might have been misrouted or left on a different loading dock. When traveling out of the country, be sure to check on necessary inoculations and quarantine rules. It may not be a wise decision to travel with your pet under some circumstances.
If your cat is very old or very young, discuss travel with you veterinarian before making plans.
If the trip is short, it may be wiser to leave the cat at home. For a day or two, enough water, food, and litter can be left for the cat. Beyond that, a pet sitting service might be your option or boarding at a reputable boarding facility.
How to travel with your cat. Cats can be good travelers, especially if they become accustomed to travel at an early age.
Although cats are generally homebodies, they can be good travelers if they become accustomed to traveling while they are kittens. If your plans include being away from home for an extended period of time, you may find it more convenient to take your cat with you. The trip can be pleasant for you both if you take some precautions.
Always make sure the cat is in good health before a trip. If necessary, take him to the veterinarian to make sure and to get any necessary inoculations.
Purchase a carrying case, if you don't already own one. They are available in many sizes and styles at pet stores and at some veterinarian offices. The case must be strong enough so the cat cannot claw or chew his way out of it, and it must have enough air holes and space for the cat's comfort and health.
If you are traveling by car, several short trips before the long trip might help the cat become accustomed to a long one. Never let the cat loose in the car. It is just asking for trouble, but you can talk and comfort the cat while on the road. If the trip is by car but less than eight hours, there is no need for a litter box. An old metal lid or cardboard box kept in the trunk will work for longer trips. You can also purchase disposable litter boxes. Water is always required, but food may be held back for short trips. Harnesses are available and the litter box can be kept in the trunk. Never let the cat loose in a strange place without a restraint. There is always a chance the cat might become frightened and escape. Before travel check to find out if cats are permitted in motels and hotels. If not, offer to pay for damages. Never leave any pet locked in a car.
With railroads and airlines, check for regulations about traveling with a cat before leaving. Cats are sometimes permitted in a compartment with you on trains, however, usually it is required that they be kept in a carrying case in the baggage car.
Airlines normally require cats to be kept in carrying cases in the pressurized luggage compartment. Flying is usually easier because of the speed of flight. Non-stop flights are preferred and reduce the possibility of a mess-up in baggage delivery when planes are changed in multi-flight arrangements. Also, avoid peak travel times when more mistakes can be made. Avoid traveling when it is extremely hot or cold since the cat may have to wait, unprotected, for personnel to move it out of this discomfort.
It is advised you insure your cat. Insured, your cat is more likely to be treated as a valuable animal by airline personnel and be delivered to you with more care and promptness. Do not try to tranquilize your cat unless you and the veterinarian have decided previously on the proper medication and dosage. If there is a mistake and your cat is not delivered, immediately contact airport personnel since your cat might have been misrouted or left on a different loading dock. When traveling out of the country, be sure to check on necessary inoculations and quarantine rules. It may not be a wise decision to travel with your pet under some circumstances.
If your cat is very old or very young, discuss travel with you veterinarian before making plans.
If the trip is short, it may be wiser to leave the cat at home. For a day or two, enough water, food, and litter can be left for the cat. Beyond that, a pet sitting service might be your option or boarding at a reputable boarding facility.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Teaching Your Cat Tricks Is Easy
Teaching Your Cat Tricks Is Easy
Teaching your cat tricks, to come when you call and to beg is not hard, it is a very rewarding experience.
Have you ever wished that your cat would come when called? Well a cat can be trained to come when called and perform a few other small tricks. A cat, being a far more independent than a dog, will require more patience and energy. The results will be worth it; think about how convenient it would be to call Snowball, and have Snowball come to you.
The younger a cat is the easier it will be to train. This doesn't mean that an older cat is untrainable, but that it will be a little harder. The first thing to do is determine what your cat's favorite treat is. Canned cat food, sardines, or one of the commercial cat treats are all acceptable. The main thing is your cat has to like it over all other treats. You will only be giving your cat this treat when you are training them.
Cats can learn many tricks. Decide which one you need or want them to learn first, and that is the only trick you will work on. The process is very similar for most tricks. So we will go over teaching Snowball to sit up and beg. This is one of the easier tricks to teach your cat since it merely reinforces one of their natural habits.
When your cat is awake, and ready to spend some time with you, get out the treat of choice. Hold a small (the size of a pinhead) piece between your fingers and use one or two words to tell your cat what you want, for example 'beg'. Hold the treat above your cat's head to where Snowball will be encouraged to sit and reach up with her paws. The moment something resembling the desired trick is accomplished give her the treat. Don't worry about refining it at this point. Do this three to five times depending upon your cat's attention span.
Put the treat away. If your cat should perform the trick with out being asked then immediately praise her, and give her the treat. Most cats will take two to three weeks to learn a given trick if you work on it daily.
When you add another trick, have your cat perform one learned trick then reward her, give the command for the second trick and reward for performance only of the second trick. If you call Snowball and she comes, reward her and then you say beg. Don't reward unless they sit up and beg, or perform something similar.
When your cat performs a trick successfully everyday for two weeks you can occasionally not give them a treat for performance, but please remember cats are independent and will quickly refuse to perform if they are not rewarded. Patience is the key to training a cat. Yelling, will not work, and if you hit a cat they will think you are playing. Enjoy your cat and the tricks they learn.
Teaching your cat tricks, to come when you call and to beg is not hard, it is a very rewarding experience.
Have you ever wished that your cat would come when called? Well a cat can be trained to come when called and perform a few other small tricks. A cat, being a far more independent than a dog, will require more patience and energy. The results will be worth it; think about how convenient it would be to call Snowball, and have Snowball come to you.
The younger a cat is the easier it will be to train. This doesn't mean that an older cat is untrainable, but that it will be a little harder. The first thing to do is determine what your cat's favorite treat is. Canned cat food, sardines, or one of the commercial cat treats are all acceptable. The main thing is your cat has to like it over all other treats. You will only be giving your cat this treat when you are training them.
Cats can learn many tricks. Decide which one you need or want them to learn first, and that is the only trick you will work on. The process is very similar for most tricks. So we will go over teaching Snowball to sit up and beg. This is one of the easier tricks to teach your cat since it merely reinforces one of their natural habits.
When your cat is awake, and ready to spend some time with you, get out the treat of choice. Hold a small (the size of a pinhead) piece between your fingers and use one or two words to tell your cat what you want, for example 'beg'. Hold the treat above your cat's head to where Snowball will be encouraged to sit and reach up with her paws. The moment something resembling the desired trick is accomplished give her the treat. Don't worry about refining it at this point. Do this three to five times depending upon your cat's attention span.
Put the treat away. If your cat should perform the trick with out being asked then immediately praise her, and give her the treat. Most cats will take two to three weeks to learn a given trick if you work on it daily.
When you add another trick, have your cat perform one learned trick then reward her, give the command for the second trick and reward for performance only of the second trick. If you call Snowball and she comes, reward her and then you say beg. Don't reward unless they sit up and beg, or perform something similar.
When your cat performs a trick successfully everyday for two weeks you can occasionally not give them a treat for performance, but please remember cats are independent and will quickly refuse to perform if they are not rewarded. Patience is the key to training a cat. Yelling, will not work, and if you hit a cat they will think you are playing. Enjoy your cat and the tricks they learn.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
The Benefits Of Owning A Cat
The Benefits Of Owning A Cat
There are many benefits of owning a cat such as unconditional love and health benefits. A cat is a wonderful pet to have for a family, a single person, or the elderly.
Have you ever come home at night and been greeted by your cat walking in and out of your legs and rubbing up against you happy to see that you are home? How about when you are home alone on a cold Saturday night watching tv and your warm little kitty snuggles up with you curling up in your lap and purring loudly? What an experience it is having a cat as part of the family.
Cats don't require as much care as many other pets such as dogs because they are very independant and can use a litter box if you are not home. You can literally fill up a huge container of dry food and water and leave it there for a week if you need to go away on business or vacation and just have a friend stop over to keep your kitty company one or two times during that week. Cats also clean themselves. You could give them a bath once a year if you so desire but it is not necessary because they are very capable of keeping themselves very clean. Owning a cat has more benefits than downfalls by far. It is the perfect pet for the family and also for a single person.
Current research has demonstrated that pets in general can provide many physical and psychological benefits. Cats decrease blood pressure and can even lower cholesterol. They can also reduce the mortality rate related to heart disease. Cat ownership can lead to fewer office visits to the doctor and a significant reduction in minor health problems.
Cats can also provide emotional support from time to time when it is most needed. People who suffer from diseases can feel alone and a cat can decrease these feelings by creating intimacy with its owner. They provide unconditional love to their owner and other members of the family. If you think about it, a cat never gets mad at you or holds a grudge. A cat never talks behind your back and is physically and emotionally unable to hurt your feelings. This is why many people become so close to their cats and have such a hard time when their pet dies. They have nothing but good memories of their kitty.
It has been said that cats know when their owner is sick. Many people have noticed that when they have a cold or are stuck in bed with some kind of illness, their cat is right there snuggled up in bed or on the couch with them. They have also been known to be able to detect when their owner is emotionally upset.
The benefits of pet ownership can be strongest for men who have few confidants, but a close attachment to their pets, sleeping in the same room as their cat at night, for example, cuddling them frequently.
Cat companionship helps reduce the isolation that can accompany depression. Not only is depression often a stigmatizing condition, but many people lose friends and companions because of it. This can leave a person feeling very alone and desperate. The attachment that a cat provides can reduce feelings of stress and lonliness that are associated with depression, one of the most commonly diagnosed conditions.
Owning a cat can come in very handy for lonely senior citizens who don't get many visitors. Elderly people who find it hard to get out and visit others can experience lonliness quite often. Having a cat around for companionship is very beneficial to the elderly to keep them from feeling depressed and feeling like nobody loves them. Once again a cat loves to cuddle up to its owner and can make a person feel very loved and wanted. They are also very self entertaining having the ability to play with anything that moves, or anything that doesn't move for that matter.
People who are incapacitated can enjoy having a cat as a pet also because they are very self sufficient. They don't have to be taken out for a walk three times a day like a dog and they really don't need to get out and get physical exercise outside of the home.
The unconditional love that a cat gives to its owner when they are sick, lonely, or even if they lead a healthy lifestyle is incredible. Your little warm ball of fur is usually always happy and can help keep its owner feeling happy and loved.
So, next time you are sitting around trying to decide what kind of pet to pick for your family or a family member, consider a cat. Getting a cat that is approximately one year old has its benefits over getting a kitten because you can already get a feel for its personality. For instance, most kittens are very playful but can mellow out significantly once it reaches 6 months old. If you are looking for a cat that is patient because you have little children, you may want to be sure to get a full grown cat that has a reputation of being around other children.
A kitten can grow up to be very fiesty and uncontrollable or it could turn out to be laid back and mellow. If you have special needs or requirements from a cat, it would be better to pick an older one that has developed its permanent temperment.
There are many benefits of owning a cat such as unconditional love and health benefits. A cat is a wonderful pet to have for a family, a single person, or the elderly.
Have you ever come home at night and been greeted by your cat walking in and out of your legs and rubbing up against you happy to see that you are home? How about when you are home alone on a cold Saturday night watching tv and your warm little kitty snuggles up with you curling up in your lap and purring loudly? What an experience it is having a cat as part of the family.
Cats don't require as much care as many other pets such as dogs because they are very independant and can use a litter box if you are not home. You can literally fill up a huge container of dry food and water and leave it there for a week if you need to go away on business or vacation and just have a friend stop over to keep your kitty company one or two times during that week. Cats also clean themselves. You could give them a bath once a year if you so desire but it is not necessary because they are very capable of keeping themselves very clean. Owning a cat has more benefits than downfalls by far. It is the perfect pet for the family and also for a single person.
Current research has demonstrated that pets in general can provide many physical and psychological benefits. Cats decrease blood pressure and can even lower cholesterol. They can also reduce the mortality rate related to heart disease. Cat ownership can lead to fewer office visits to the doctor and a significant reduction in minor health problems.
Cats can also provide emotional support from time to time when it is most needed. People who suffer from diseases can feel alone and a cat can decrease these feelings by creating intimacy with its owner. They provide unconditional love to their owner and other members of the family. If you think about it, a cat never gets mad at you or holds a grudge. A cat never talks behind your back and is physically and emotionally unable to hurt your feelings. This is why many people become so close to their cats and have such a hard time when their pet dies. They have nothing but good memories of their kitty.
It has been said that cats know when their owner is sick. Many people have noticed that when they have a cold or are stuck in bed with some kind of illness, their cat is right there snuggled up in bed or on the couch with them. They have also been known to be able to detect when their owner is emotionally upset.
The benefits of pet ownership can be strongest for men who have few confidants, but a close attachment to their pets, sleeping in the same room as their cat at night, for example, cuddling them frequently.
Cat companionship helps reduce the isolation that can accompany depression. Not only is depression often a stigmatizing condition, but many people lose friends and companions because of it. This can leave a person feeling very alone and desperate. The attachment that a cat provides can reduce feelings of stress and lonliness that are associated with depression, one of the most commonly diagnosed conditions.
Owning a cat can come in very handy for lonely senior citizens who don't get many visitors. Elderly people who find it hard to get out and visit others can experience lonliness quite often. Having a cat around for companionship is very beneficial to the elderly to keep them from feeling depressed and feeling like nobody loves them. Once again a cat loves to cuddle up to its owner and can make a person feel very loved and wanted. They are also very self entertaining having the ability to play with anything that moves, or anything that doesn't move for that matter.
People who are incapacitated can enjoy having a cat as a pet also because they are very self sufficient. They don't have to be taken out for a walk three times a day like a dog and they really don't need to get out and get physical exercise outside of the home.
The unconditional love that a cat gives to its owner when they are sick, lonely, or even if they lead a healthy lifestyle is incredible. Your little warm ball of fur is usually always happy and can help keep its owner feeling happy and loved.
So, next time you are sitting around trying to decide what kind of pet to pick for your family or a family member, consider a cat. Getting a cat that is approximately one year old has its benefits over getting a kitten because you can already get a feel for its personality. For instance, most kittens are very playful but can mellow out significantly once it reaches 6 months old. If you are looking for a cat that is patient because you have little children, you may want to be sure to get a full grown cat that has a reputation of being around other children.
A kitten can grow up to be very fiesty and uncontrollable or it could turn out to be laid back and mellow. If you have special needs or requirements from a cat, it would be better to pick an older one that has developed its permanent temperment.
Friday, January 2, 2009
Orphaned Kitten Care
Orphaned Kitten Care
Orphaned kitten care: How to care for an orphaned kitten, what to feed it, how to clean it, how to keep it warm, how to teach it to use a litter box.
So your children just brought home a kitten that is less than 6 weeks old, or you found a litter of kittens in your yard, and their eyes are still shut, what do you do?
If your children brought the kitten home find out where they got it from and if possible return it, but be forwarned, sometimes a mother cat will not take a kitten back that has been gone too long. The length of time will depend upon the age of the kitten and the individual cat.
If you found a litter in your yard, more than likely someone thought that it was a good place to dump an unwanted litter of kittens. If you have any ideas on who it was, feel free to vent your disgust with such cruel and inhumane treatment. Now comes the work-- you just became a mama cat.
Be prepared if your orphaned kitten is less than two weeks old, it may not survive no matter what you do. Prior to two weeks they recieve a lot of important nutrients and care from the mother cat that we as humans cannot duplicate. You may be lucky, but try not to get too attached, but if you are taking on the responsibility of caring for the kitten you probably are already attached, so the previous caution is not going to work. Good luck.
Kittens are fairly simple to raise if you are prepared to spend the time caring for them. They require feeding, warmth, and lots of TLC. You will need the following:
An animal feeding bottle. When feeding them, experience has shown that eye droppers are not effective, unless you have a lot of patience and time.
Kitten formula. Available at most pet stores, and many large stores with a good pet department. Pick a brand and stick with it, much like a baby formula. Follow the directions of your vet, or if he/she is unavailable the directions on the container. Your vetanarian will probably be able to suggest the best one available in your area.
A cardboard box with some old rags, or towels lining the bottom. Your kitten will need to be kept warm and out of drafts, they are very susceptable to colds and chilling. I have had some success using an old heating pad on one side of the box. The kitten could curl up near the heating pad if it felt cold.
Now you have the equipment together, find a place to keep your kitten. A fairly quiet location, much like a mother cat would find, the bottom of a closet, under a table, or bed. Make sure it is reasonably accessible for your convenience. Generally speaking the dimmer the light the better for the kitten. You should make sure that the cloth on the bottom is soft, and dry. Old towels, worn out t-shirts, or jeans are ideal.
Your kitten will let you know when it is hungry by crawling around and mewing. The younger they are the more often they will need feeding. Make up the formula according to the vets or the label directions. Be sure it is body temperature, you wouldn't want to chill the kitten's stomach. Hold the kitten in your lap and angle the nipple so he/she can find it. Once the kitten has the nipple let them enjoy thier meal. Gently stroke the kitten while it is feeding, brushing the fur first back and then forward will help with digestion.
The kitten has finished and is starting to sleep, now is the time to burp the kitten. Yes just like a human baby your kitten will need burping. Now is the time to be thankful that, unlike babies, they very seldom spit up. Place the kitten on your shoulder and very gently pat it. You will hear a soft burp. After burping the kitten, take a warm damp washcloth and clean his/her face. Use gentle circular motions, covering the chin, sides and neck of your kitten. Mama cat washes her kittens several times a day. This serves several purposes: keeping them clean, bonding the kitten and the mother and ensuring that they are able to digest thier food.
You will need to encourage your kitten to evacuate its bowels, using a warm damp washcloth rub the abdomen in a circular motion. Your kitten may or may not go at this time, but check on a fairly regular basis and make sure you clean them up as soon as you are aware that they have gone. Just like babies they can get a rash. Unlike babies you can't use a diaper rash cream. once they are able to walk start encouraging them to use a litter box.
Dry your kitten off with a dry towel or washcloth, and let it sleep until the next feeding time. When your kitten is about 4 weeks old you can introduce kitten food, moistened with a little formula. The microwave is ideal for preparing it. about a tablespoon of dry kitten food, and two tablespoons of prepared formula in the microwave for 30 seconds and mash. Don't be disappointed if the first few times the kitten doesn't eat. It is a new taste/texture and will require some adjustment on the kittens part. Offering it before you bottle feed will help encourage him/her to eat.
As the kitten gets older they will start to look for a litter box. Find one that they can climb in and out of, an old shoe box lid filled with kitty litter is about the right size. When your kitten goes outside of the litter box just place him/her in and he will learn quickly that is where he is supposed to go. Sometimes you may have to show your kitten how to scratch and bury the litter, gently scratch the litter with one of the kittens paws when you put them in the litter box and they will soon get the idea.
Most kitten are weaned at about 6 to 8 weeks, so continue to supplement their dry food with formula until they are about 8 weeks old. They will need the extra nutrients and calories until they can consume enough kitten food to supply thier needs.
Enjoy your kitten, you have done a great job, and provided an independent friend for life. Generally I have found that bottle raised cats are friendlier, and more affectionate than others. I hope that you enjoy your new pet. Don't forget to get your kitten spayed/neutered as soon as your vet feels they are old enough. Your vet should be able to answer any other questions you might have.
Orphaned kitten care: How to care for an orphaned kitten, what to feed it, how to clean it, how to keep it warm, how to teach it to use a litter box.
So your children just brought home a kitten that is less than 6 weeks old, or you found a litter of kittens in your yard, and their eyes are still shut, what do you do?
If your children brought the kitten home find out where they got it from and if possible return it, but be forwarned, sometimes a mother cat will not take a kitten back that has been gone too long. The length of time will depend upon the age of the kitten and the individual cat.
If you found a litter in your yard, more than likely someone thought that it was a good place to dump an unwanted litter of kittens. If you have any ideas on who it was, feel free to vent your disgust with such cruel and inhumane treatment. Now comes the work-- you just became a mama cat.
Be prepared if your orphaned kitten is less than two weeks old, it may not survive no matter what you do. Prior to two weeks they recieve a lot of important nutrients and care from the mother cat that we as humans cannot duplicate. You may be lucky, but try not to get too attached, but if you are taking on the responsibility of caring for the kitten you probably are already attached, so the previous caution is not going to work. Good luck.
Kittens are fairly simple to raise if you are prepared to spend the time caring for them. They require feeding, warmth, and lots of TLC. You will need the following:
An animal feeding bottle. When feeding them, experience has shown that eye droppers are not effective, unless you have a lot of patience and time.
Kitten formula. Available at most pet stores, and many large stores with a good pet department. Pick a brand and stick with it, much like a baby formula. Follow the directions of your vet, or if he/she is unavailable the directions on the container. Your vetanarian will probably be able to suggest the best one available in your area.
A cardboard box with some old rags, or towels lining the bottom. Your kitten will need to be kept warm and out of drafts, they are very susceptable to colds and chilling. I have had some success using an old heating pad on one side of the box. The kitten could curl up near the heating pad if it felt cold.
Now you have the equipment together, find a place to keep your kitten. A fairly quiet location, much like a mother cat would find, the bottom of a closet, under a table, or bed. Make sure it is reasonably accessible for your convenience. Generally speaking the dimmer the light the better for the kitten. You should make sure that the cloth on the bottom is soft, and dry. Old towels, worn out t-shirts, or jeans are ideal.
Your kitten will let you know when it is hungry by crawling around and mewing. The younger they are the more often they will need feeding. Make up the formula according to the vets or the label directions. Be sure it is body temperature, you wouldn't want to chill the kitten's stomach. Hold the kitten in your lap and angle the nipple so he/she can find it. Once the kitten has the nipple let them enjoy thier meal. Gently stroke the kitten while it is feeding, brushing the fur first back and then forward will help with digestion.
The kitten has finished and is starting to sleep, now is the time to burp the kitten. Yes just like a human baby your kitten will need burping. Now is the time to be thankful that, unlike babies, they very seldom spit up. Place the kitten on your shoulder and very gently pat it. You will hear a soft burp. After burping the kitten, take a warm damp washcloth and clean his/her face. Use gentle circular motions, covering the chin, sides and neck of your kitten. Mama cat washes her kittens several times a day. This serves several purposes: keeping them clean, bonding the kitten and the mother and ensuring that they are able to digest thier food.
You will need to encourage your kitten to evacuate its bowels, using a warm damp washcloth rub the abdomen in a circular motion. Your kitten may or may not go at this time, but check on a fairly regular basis and make sure you clean them up as soon as you are aware that they have gone. Just like babies they can get a rash. Unlike babies you can't use a diaper rash cream. once they are able to walk start encouraging them to use a litter box.
Dry your kitten off with a dry towel or washcloth, and let it sleep until the next feeding time. When your kitten is about 4 weeks old you can introduce kitten food, moistened with a little formula. The microwave is ideal for preparing it. about a tablespoon of dry kitten food, and two tablespoons of prepared formula in the microwave for 30 seconds and mash. Don't be disappointed if the first few times the kitten doesn't eat. It is a new taste/texture and will require some adjustment on the kittens part. Offering it before you bottle feed will help encourage him/her to eat.
As the kitten gets older they will start to look for a litter box. Find one that they can climb in and out of, an old shoe box lid filled with kitty litter is about the right size. When your kitten goes outside of the litter box just place him/her in and he will learn quickly that is where he is supposed to go. Sometimes you may have to show your kitten how to scratch and bury the litter, gently scratch the litter with one of the kittens paws when you put them in the litter box and they will soon get the idea.
Most kitten are weaned at about 6 to 8 weeks, so continue to supplement their dry food with formula until they are about 8 weeks old. They will need the extra nutrients and calories until they can consume enough kitten food to supply thier needs.
Enjoy your kitten, you have done a great job, and provided an independent friend for life. Generally I have found that bottle raised cats are friendlier, and more affectionate than others. I hope that you enjoy your new pet. Don't forget to get your kitten spayed/neutered as soon as your vet feels they are old enough. Your vet should be able to answer any other questions you might have.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
New Kitten Care
New Kitten Care
New kitten care tips: introducing a new kitten to your other cats, what to do about cat food and toys, the litter box, etc.
Your mature cats may not be keen to have another cat take up residence in their house. Some simple steps can ensure the smooth integration of a new cat into the daily routine.
The fur will fly if the new tenant is a mature cat. You may even end up with some hefty vet bills.
Go with a kitten, preferably no older than eight weeks. Crusty as they may be, mature cats seem to have tolerance for a kitten. Some will avoid it at all costs, jumping to high points inaccessible to the rambunctious newcomer. From there, they'll settle and evaluate its antics.
Expect some hissing and cuffing about as the pecking order is worked out, but claws will rarely be bared by the mature cat(s). Try not to intercede; the cats will work it out themselves.
If your cats go outdoors, keep the new kitten indoors for a couple of weeks and provide it the same run of the house enjoyed by the other cats.
Do show it the litter box; put it in the litter box only when it's clean. If possible, do this within a half hour of bringing the kitten into the house.
Show it the location of the food and water dishes. With dry food, cats usually self-feed. There is no need for separate dishes. If the cats receive a daily helping of wet food, individual dishes for these are advisable. At first you'll have to keep an eye on this operation until the kitten finds out it should not stick its nose into another cat's dish. The mature cats have to realize they can't bully the kitten away from its own dish, too.
If you spot a mature cat or two placidly lying or sitting in the vicinity of the food dishes or the litter box, they may be doing it to prevent the kitten from access. Send them hiking!
Avoid the tendency to give the kitten individual attention. If anything, give the mature cats more. Let them know they're still important.
Ensure the new kitten has a safe haven, a hidey hole where the big cats can't reach it. From time to time the little one will need it.
This is the time to resurrect the cat toys: the stuffed mouse, the strings, the balls. The kitten will love them; and, when they think you're not watching, the mature cats will put aside their dignity and play with them, too.
Introducing a tom kitten can be tricky if you have a mature tom cat in residence. If the mature tom cat is not neutered, you may have a chance it will accept the interloper but relations will be very cool. You can also expect some serious territorial spraying to begin.
A new kitten in the house can re-vitalize the old gang. It's well worth the effort!
New kitten care tips: introducing a new kitten to your other cats, what to do about cat food and toys, the litter box, etc.
Your mature cats may not be keen to have another cat take up residence in their house. Some simple steps can ensure the smooth integration of a new cat into the daily routine.
The fur will fly if the new tenant is a mature cat. You may even end up with some hefty vet bills.
Go with a kitten, preferably no older than eight weeks. Crusty as they may be, mature cats seem to have tolerance for a kitten. Some will avoid it at all costs, jumping to high points inaccessible to the rambunctious newcomer. From there, they'll settle and evaluate its antics.
Expect some hissing and cuffing about as the pecking order is worked out, but claws will rarely be bared by the mature cat(s). Try not to intercede; the cats will work it out themselves.
If your cats go outdoors, keep the new kitten indoors for a couple of weeks and provide it the same run of the house enjoyed by the other cats.
Do show it the litter box; put it in the litter box only when it's clean. If possible, do this within a half hour of bringing the kitten into the house.
Show it the location of the food and water dishes. With dry food, cats usually self-feed. There is no need for separate dishes. If the cats receive a daily helping of wet food, individual dishes for these are advisable. At first you'll have to keep an eye on this operation until the kitten finds out it should not stick its nose into another cat's dish. The mature cats have to realize they can't bully the kitten away from its own dish, too.
If you spot a mature cat or two placidly lying or sitting in the vicinity of the food dishes or the litter box, they may be doing it to prevent the kitten from access. Send them hiking!
Avoid the tendency to give the kitten individual attention. If anything, give the mature cats more. Let them know they're still important.
Ensure the new kitten has a safe haven, a hidey hole where the big cats can't reach it. From time to time the little one will need it.
This is the time to resurrect the cat toys: the stuffed mouse, the strings, the balls. The kitten will love them; and, when they think you're not watching, the mature cats will put aside their dignity and play with them, too.
Introducing a tom kitten can be tricky if you have a mature tom cat in residence. If the mature tom cat is not neutered, you may have a chance it will accept the interloper but relations will be very cool. You can also expect some serious territorial spraying to begin.
A new kitten in the house can re-vitalize the old gang. It's well worth the effort!
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