Newborn Kitten Care: First Litter Of Cats
Newborn kitten care, especially for your cat's first litter of kittens, can involve some surprises. Learn how you can help provide care with this information When your cat has its first litter, these are things that you need to know about, in case this happens to you, as it did to my cats, first litter. One of my cats name is, Snowflake. She is one year old. This was her first time having kittens, but she only had one. She didn't have a hard time having it, and she started taking very good care of it, by nursing the kitten right away.
Snowflake wanted to stay close to me while she nursed her kitten, so they both stayed in my bedroom, on top of my bed. Snowflake didn't want to be anywhere else, not even in any box. So, i let them stay on my bed while she nursed. I kept a very good eye on them both, and for three days everything was going fine, the kitten was a boy, and getting bigger. Everything looked fine, until the fourth day, the kitten started crying. I couldn't figure out what could be wrong. Then the second day of the kitten crying, while Snowflake was trying to nurse it, i noticed that it looked like the kitten wasn't getting any milk from her. I also noticed that on Snowflake that all her milk was dried up, except on that one nipple, where her kitten had been nursing on. This is when i thought about, well maybe that one nipple the kitten isn't getting any milk, or enough milk out from it. So the third day, this is when i decided to take the kitten along with Snowflake to the Veternarian. Once i got them both there, the Veternarian checked over the kitten, and said; yes the kitten is really dehydrated; that you need to purchase a milk replacer for your kitten called:KMR. It is a 8 FL.OZ Can, cost was: $3.99 per can. Depending on what pet store you go too.
The Veternarian said, purchase this milk, along with some syringe needles he had given me, but stated to take the needles out first of course, then fill up the syringe with this type of milk right away once you get this kitten home, and give as much milk to the kitten as it will consume at one time, and give it as often as the kitten will take it, until this kitten gets better. The Veternarian also gave the kitten a shot under its skin on the back part of its neck, to help give it some fluids in its body, he stated that this will help give the kitten some fluids, and make the kitten more relaxed, stop it from crying so much. The veternarian said he couldn't put an IV in the kitten, for the kitten is too small, and he would not be able to put a needle into its small veins. This kitten was almost gone by the time i taken it to the Vet, i had waited too long. Don't wait until your cats kitten cries for three days.
If you notice any of your cats first litter of kittens, or one kitten crying for one whole day, take the kittens to the Veternarian, for it needs
your help, and the shot will help. But if you don't wait as long as i did, then you can go to the Petstore and purchase that brand of milk, or any kind of kitten milk replacer, and empty syringes, or even an eye dropper to start feeding the kitten as quickley as possible. Snowflakes kitten didn't make it, so I'm telling this story so you will know if this happens to your cats first kitten, or kittens; so you will not make the same mistake as i did, and you can save your cats kittens life.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Monday, December 29, 2008
How To Give A Cat A Pill
How To Give A Cat A Pill
Giving a pill to a cat isn't easy. Learn the best way to give your cat a pill and make the ordeal quick and easy. Hopefully you will never have to give your cat a pill since it is often an unpleasant and difficult task. However, if your cat develops any sort of medical condition and needs to be medicated, you might find yourself facing the choice of pills or liquid. It might seem that liquids are easier but pills are much easier to handle than liquids. Often liquid antibiotics will need refrigeration, are not tasty to cats (or anyone, for that matter) and are hard to give accurately since often the cat will spit up a fair amount of the liquid intended for him. Whether you only have to give the cat a pill once or whether you are going to have to do it for the rest of their lives due to a medical condition, it's a good idea to know the right way to go about it. Note: Please do NOT give cats aspirin since aspirin is toxic to felines.
Dogs are fairly easy to give pills to because you can hide the pill in a small piece of cheese and they will gobble it up without any problem. Cats are not so trusting. They seem to know when we are trying to sneak something on them. They will be especially suspicious if you give them something to eat that you've never shared with them before. If you've ever tried hiding a pill in their canned food, you've probably discovered that they have eaten all around it and, at best, have only managed to give the pill a few good licks. Unfortunately, you have to be direct with cats when it comes to pilling them.
Steps:
1. Have the pill ready. Don't think that you can get the cat and then with your free hand manage to open the bottle and grab the pill. By this time, Kitty has already jumped off the counter and is hiding under the bed. If the pill has to be cut in half, make sure you do this ahead of time. Try to give the pill at around the same time each day. Some pills must be given with food and others in between meals.
2. This tip is especially true if you are going to be giving Kitty pills for an extended period of time. Don't ever call Kitty to come and get his pill. He will begin to associate your calling him with him getting a pill and it won't be long before he doesn't come at all when called for fear you are going to shove something down his throat. Only call your Kitty if you are going to do something nice for him like give him a treat or tickle his belly. You want the sound of your voice saying his name to have a pleasant association. If you are going to give Kitty a pill or do anything else unpleasant, wait until he is somewhere where you can grab him easily without scaring him.
3. Pick a place where Kitty doesn't usually sleep or sit to be his infirmary. A counter top or a particular chair is good. This could have a double effect of making him avoid that particular place in the future, so if he's been getting in trouble for climbing on Dad's favorite chair, use it and he might be a little more reluctant.
4. Be gentle! Grab Kitty gently and take him to the designated spot. Stroke him and praise him. All cats are different when it comes to this sort of thing. Your cat might be very gentle and might allow you to give him his pill quite quickly and without much of a fuss, or he may become frightened or aggressive. If you think he might become aggressive, try wrapping him up with a towel so that he can't get his arms and legs free, this will help you to keep your cool and not worry about Kitty scratching you. This may not be necessary, however, if your Kitty is fairly calm.
5. Now comes the fun part. You will definitely need two hands for this. The best way is to hug Kitty from behind with one arm, using the hand to gently cup his chin and hold his mouth open. With the other hand, pop the pill as far back into his throat as you can. Quickly hold his mouth closed and talk soothingly to him. Keep his mouth closed until you feel him swallow. A good way to make him swallow is to rub his nose until it gets dry. Kitties hate dry noses and will instinctively reach out their tongues to wet them, in order to do that, they will have to swallow. If you don't have a hand free to rub his nose, try blowing on his nose with your mouth until he does dart out that tongue. Once that tongue comes out, you can be pretty sure that the pill is swallowed. You will know if you see him spitting it out, since they will do this as soon as they get their mouth open. If you get the pill between his teeth and cheeks, it will be hard for him to swallow it. If this happens let him spit it out and try again, this time aiming for the back of his throat.
6. The first time you do this, it will take you a few minutes. Remember Kitty can sense that you are stressed, be calm. After the third or fourth time, you will find that it takes you only a few seconds to do the whole process. You may not even need the towel.
7. Be sure to praise Kitty after his ordeal and give him a small treat. He will then learn to associate his pill time with treat time.
Once you get the hang of it, it isn't difficult at all.
Giving a pill to a cat isn't easy. Learn the best way to give your cat a pill and make the ordeal quick and easy. Hopefully you will never have to give your cat a pill since it is often an unpleasant and difficult task. However, if your cat develops any sort of medical condition and needs to be medicated, you might find yourself facing the choice of pills or liquid. It might seem that liquids are easier but pills are much easier to handle than liquids. Often liquid antibiotics will need refrigeration, are not tasty to cats (or anyone, for that matter) and are hard to give accurately since often the cat will spit up a fair amount of the liquid intended for him. Whether you only have to give the cat a pill once or whether you are going to have to do it for the rest of their lives due to a medical condition, it's a good idea to know the right way to go about it. Note: Please do NOT give cats aspirin since aspirin is toxic to felines.
Dogs are fairly easy to give pills to because you can hide the pill in a small piece of cheese and they will gobble it up without any problem. Cats are not so trusting. They seem to know when we are trying to sneak something on them. They will be especially suspicious if you give them something to eat that you've never shared with them before. If you've ever tried hiding a pill in their canned food, you've probably discovered that they have eaten all around it and, at best, have only managed to give the pill a few good licks. Unfortunately, you have to be direct with cats when it comes to pilling them.
Steps:
1. Have the pill ready. Don't think that you can get the cat and then with your free hand manage to open the bottle and grab the pill. By this time, Kitty has already jumped off the counter and is hiding under the bed. If the pill has to be cut in half, make sure you do this ahead of time. Try to give the pill at around the same time each day. Some pills must be given with food and others in between meals.
2. This tip is especially true if you are going to be giving Kitty pills for an extended period of time. Don't ever call Kitty to come and get his pill. He will begin to associate your calling him with him getting a pill and it won't be long before he doesn't come at all when called for fear you are going to shove something down his throat. Only call your Kitty if you are going to do something nice for him like give him a treat or tickle his belly. You want the sound of your voice saying his name to have a pleasant association. If you are going to give Kitty a pill or do anything else unpleasant, wait until he is somewhere where you can grab him easily without scaring him.
3. Pick a place where Kitty doesn't usually sleep or sit to be his infirmary. A counter top or a particular chair is good. This could have a double effect of making him avoid that particular place in the future, so if he's been getting in trouble for climbing on Dad's favorite chair, use it and he might be a little more reluctant.
4. Be gentle! Grab Kitty gently and take him to the designated spot. Stroke him and praise him. All cats are different when it comes to this sort of thing. Your cat might be very gentle and might allow you to give him his pill quite quickly and without much of a fuss, or he may become frightened or aggressive. If you think he might become aggressive, try wrapping him up with a towel so that he can't get his arms and legs free, this will help you to keep your cool and not worry about Kitty scratching you. This may not be necessary, however, if your Kitty is fairly calm.
5. Now comes the fun part. You will definitely need two hands for this. The best way is to hug Kitty from behind with one arm, using the hand to gently cup his chin and hold his mouth open. With the other hand, pop the pill as far back into his throat as you can. Quickly hold his mouth closed and talk soothingly to him. Keep his mouth closed until you feel him swallow. A good way to make him swallow is to rub his nose until it gets dry. Kitties hate dry noses and will instinctively reach out their tongues to wet them, in order to do that, they will have to swallow. If you don't have a hand free to rub his nose, try blowing on his nose with your mouth until he does dart out that tongue. Once that tongue comes out, you can be pretty sure that the pill is swallowed. You will know if you see him spitting it out, since they will do this as soon as they get their mouth open. If you get the pill between his teeth and cheeks, it will be hard for him to swallow it. If this happens let him spit it out and try again, this time aiming for the back of his throat.
6. The first time you do this, it will take you a few minutes. Remember Kitty can sense that you are stressed, be calm. After the third or fourth time, you will find that it takes you only a few seconds to do the whole process. You may not even need the towel.
7. Be sure to praise Kitty after his ordeal and give him a small treat. He will then learn to associate his pill time with treat time.
Once you get the hang of it, it isn't difficult at all.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
How To Care For A Sick Cat
How To Care For A Sick Cat
Learn how to care for a sick cat including what to feed it, how to administer medication, and taking its temperature.
If a veterinarian says a sick cat can be cared for at home, choose a quiet corner of the house, away from traffic, where the cat won't be disturbed but can still be with you and your family. This spot should be free of dampness and drafts and have a temperature of about 72 degrees to help avoid chills. A box with a washable blanket or rug can serve as the cat's bed. If the cat must be confined to restrict activity, place a window screen on top of the box with a weight on top of it so the cat can't knock it off.
If a cat needs liquid medication, it should be poured or inserted with a syringe (without the needle) into the side of the cat's mouth. Do not put in so much that he has to swallow too fast. For small kittens, a drop at a time is sufficient. Rapid swallowing can force liquids into a cat's lungs and cause pneumonia. Hold your cat's head, if you can, to prevent him from shaking or spraying his medicine everywhere.
Pills and capsules should be given with the cat in front of you on a level surface, such as a table, facing toward your right side. Grasp his whole head in your left hand with your thumb and fingers pressing from opposite sides of the upper jaw. Pull his head gently backward until his nose is pointing straight up and hold it in this position. With your right hand, pull down his lower teeth to prevent his closing his mouth. Then drop the pill or capsule on the back of his tongue, giving the pill or capsule a slight push with your finger so that it goes down his throat. It helps to coat the pill with butter or margarine.
If a cat prefers pills to liquid or vice versa, ask the veterinarian if he has the medication in the preferred format. This is not always possible.
Never give cats an aspirin. It is very harmful to the cat's stomach. And use only prescribed medications and dosages.
Often, a sick cat cannot clean itself. Help the cat by using a damp wash cloth and assisting with his needs. If a cat is unable to move, turn him over several times a day to help prevent sores.
You can use an ordinary rectal thermometer to take the cat's temperature, however, the newer, faster, electronic thermometers will make it easier. For a cat, 100 to 102 are normal. To make insertion easier, use a bit of Vaseline.
In order to get well, a cat must eat. Since most sick cats have no appetite, try tempting him with a variety of cat foods, and if he has a favorite, see if he will eat it.
If the cat won't eat by itself, you must try to feed it. You can try using broth, milk or water in the same way you administer liquid medication using a syringe. With solid foods, insert a spoon into the side of the cat's mouth behind the teeth and scrape the food onto the roof of his mouth. Large amounts may force vomiting, so use smaller amounts more frequently.
Make sure you follow your veterinarian's advice.
Learn how to care for a sick cat including what to feed it, how to administer medication, and taking its temperature.
If a veterinarian says a sick cat can be cared for at home, choose a quiet corner of the house, away from traffic, where the cat won't be disturbed but can still be with you and your family. This spot should be free of dampness and drafts and have a temperature of about 72 degrees to help avoid chills. A box with a washable blanket or rug can serve as the cat's bed. If the cat must be confined to restrict activity, place a window screen on top of the box with a weight on top of it so the cat can't knock it off.
If a cat needs liquid medication, it should be poured or inserted with a syringe (without the needle) into the side of the cat's mouth. Do not put in so much that he has to swallow too fast. For small kittens, a drop at a time is sufficient. Rapid swallowing can force liquids into a cat's lungs and cause pneumonia. Hold your cat's head, if you can, to prevent him from shaking or spraying his medicine everywhere.
Pills and capsules should be given with the cat in front of you on a level surface, such as a table, facing toward your right side. Grasp his whole head in your left hand with your thumb and fingers pressing from opposite sides of the upper jaw. Pull his head gently backward until his nose is pointing straight up and hold it in this position. With your right hand, pull down his lower teeth to prevent his closing his mouth. Then drop the pill or capsule on the back of his tongue, giving the pill or capsule a slight push with your finger so that it goes down his throat. It helps to coat the pill with butter or margarine.
If a cat prefers pills to liquid or vice versa, ask the veterinarian if he has the medication in the preferred format. This is not always possible.
Never give cats an aspirin. It is very harmful to the cat's stomach. And use only prescribed medications and dosages.
Often, a sick cat cannot clean itself. Help the cat by using a damp wash cloth and assisting with his needs. If a cat is unable to move, turn him over several times a day to help prevent sores.
You can use an ordinary rectal thermometer to take the cat's temperature, however, the newer, faster, electronic thermometers will make it easier. For a cat, 100 to 102 are normal. To make insertion easier, use a bit of Vaseline.
In order to get well, a cat must eat. Since most sick cats have no appetite, try tempting him with a variety of cat foods, and if he has a favorite, see if he will eat it.
If the cat won't eat by itself, you must try to feed it. You can try using broth, milk or water in the same way you administer liquid medication using a syringe. With solid foods, insert a spoon into the side of the cat's mouth behind the teeth and scrape the food onto the roof of his mouth. Large amounts may force vomiting, so use smaller amounts more frequently.
Make sure you follow your veterinarian's advice.
Saturday, December 27, 2008
How To Care For A Cat
How To Care For A Cat
Learn how to care for a cat. Cats are loving, playful pets that will delight any family. Here are few tips that will help you take care of your cat.
Cats are loving, playful pets that will delight any family. Before you purchase or adopt a feline, though, there are few tips that will help you make the right decision. Be sure when getting a cat that you examine it to be sure its general health and disposition are good. Check the animal's coat to be sure it is sleek and does not have any bare patches. Also, check to be sure the animal is completely clean on the hind legs and under its tail. Hold and pet the animal while observing how it responds. Try to get it to play with a piece of string or some other cat toy to see how playful it is. In most cases, a lack of playfulness and alertness can indicate that the animal is in poor health or has been neglected.
Once you bring your cat home, allow it to explore your home freely but do not allow it to go outside for a few days. Be sure when you purchase or adopt your cat that you also purchase a litter box and litter. The litter box should be partially filled with an even layer of commercial kitty litter and cleaned daily with a slotted spatula. Twice a week, completely empty the box and scrub it with a disinfectant before refilling it with kitty litter. If the cat is young or you have any doubts about it being house trained, be sure to restrict the animal to an area near the litter box for several days. In cases where you plan to leave your cat outside, you should still provide a litter box for at least 10 days while the animal adjusts to its new home. You can provide your cat with well-balanced nutrition with wet and/or dry cat food. If you don't want your cat to become a finicky eater, simply remove any declined meal, refrigerate it and serve it at the next meal time. Be sure when you refrigerate your cat's food that you allow it to return to room temperature before serving it. Although it is fine to occasionally treat your cat to a table scrape, you should avoid feeding it very fatty meats, pork, poultry skin, bones of fish, or fowl too often. It is also wise to keep food off your table when you have a cat because cats love to look for treats.
You cat will need to be groomed with a brush or comb that has round tips to stimulate the skin and remove loose fur. Even so, all cats tend to swallow fur while grooming themselves, which creates hair balls in their stomachs. When this happens, you should add a teaspoon of petroleum jelly to its food twice a week. Be sure when you groom your cat to check for fleas since some cats are allergic to them and can develop eczema after only a few bites. Use only flea products that are marked safe for cats. Any new cat or kitten should be examined by a veterinarian and have shots to protect them against distemper, rhinotracheitis, and calici, which are serious respiratory infections. It is also advisable to make sure your cat gets a rabies shot. After the initial check up and shot, cats should be checked at least once a year and have booster shots. Kittens will need to be checked for worms and if you do not intend to breed your cat, it should be spayed or neutered. Female cats should be spayed at around 6 months of age while males are safely neutered at 8 to 9 months.
Learn how to care for a cat. Cats are loving, playful pets that will delight any family. Here are few tips that will help you take care of your cat.
Cats are loving, playful pets that will delight any family. Before you purchase or adopt a feline, though, there are few tips that will help you make the right decision. Be sure when getting a cat that you examine it to be sure its general health and disposition are good. Check the animal's coat to be sure it is sleek and does not have any bare patches. Also, check to be sure the animal is completely clean on the hind legs and under its tail. Hold and pet the animal while observing how it responds. Try to get it to play with a piece of string or some other cat toy to see how playful it is. In most cases, a lack of playfulness and alertness can indicate that the animal is in poor health or has been neglected.
Once you bring your cat home, allow it to explore your home freely but do not allow it to go outside for a few days. Be sure when you purchase or adopt your cat that you also purchase a litter box and litter. The litter box should be partially filled with an even layer of commercial kitty litter and cleaned daily with a slotted spatula. Twice a week, completely empty the box and scrub it with a disinfectant before refilling it with kitty litter. If the cat is young or you have any doubts about it being house trained, be sure to restrict the animal to an area near the litter box for several days. In cases where you plan to leave your cat outside, you should still provide a litter box for at least 10 days while the animal adjusts to its new home. You can provide your cat with well-balanced nutrition with wet and/or dry cat food. If you don't want your cat to become a finicky eater, simply remove any declined meal, refrigerate it and serve it at the next meal time. Be sure when you refrigerate your cat's food that you allow it to return to room temperature before serving it. Although it is fine to occasionally treat your cat to a table scrape, you should avoid feeding it very fatty meats, pork, poultry skin, bones of fish, or fowl too often. It is also wise to keep food off your table when you have a cat because cats love to look for treats.
You cat will need to be groomed with a brush or comb that has round tips to stimulate the skin and remove loose fur. Even so, all cats tend to swallow fur while grooming themselves, which creates hair balls in their stomachs. When this happens, you should add a teaspoon of petroleum jelly to its food twice a week. Be sure when you groom your cat to check for fleas since some cats are allergic to them and can develop eczema after only a few bites. Use only flea products that are marked safe for cats. Any new cat or kitten should be examined by a veterinarian and have shots to protect them against distemper, rhinotracheitis, and calici, which are serious respiratory infections. It is also advisable to make sure your cat gets a rabies shot. After the initial check up and shot, cats should be checked at least once a year and have booster shots. Kittens will need to be checked for worms and if you do not intend to breed your cat, it should be spayed or neutered. Female cats should be spayed at around 6 months of age while males are safely neutered at 8 to 9 months.
Friday, December 26, 2008
Cat Immunizations
Cat Immunizations
What kinds of immunizations do you need to give your cats in order to prevent disease? What do the different shots do? Why are they important?
Your veterinarian will likely give your pet cat a variety of shots to keep it free from common diseases over the course of its life. If your vet doesn't think your cat requires one of these vaccines, you can ask to have it given to your cat anyway. However, if your vet has a major aversion to giving the vaccine, you will want to research the vaccine and what your vet is saying thoroughly. If you still want your cat to have the vaccine, you may decide to go to a different vet to get the shot. Vaccines from each of these conditions have been proven to keep your cat safe.
What kinds of immunizations do you need to give your cats in order to prevent disease? What do the different shots do? Why are they important?
Your veterinarian will likely give your pet cat a variety of shots to keep it free from common diseases over the course of its life. If your vet doesn't think your cat requires one of these vaccines, you can ask to have it given to your cat anyway. However, if your vet has a major aversion to giving the vaccine, you will want to research the vaccine and what your vet is saying thoroughly. If you still want your cat to have the vaccine, you may decide to go to a different vet to get the shot. Vaccines from each of these conditions have been proven to keep your cat safe.
- Rabies. This is a viral disease that can attack your cat's central nervous system. It can be fatal if it goes untreated. Most states actually require that all cats are given rabies shots. The disease is typically transferred through saliva, and cats generally get rabies from wild animal bites.
- Feline leukemia virus. This condition is one that attacks your cat's immune system. And if you don't catch it in time, it typically will kill your cat. The normal symptoms of this disease include weight loss, fatigue, chronic sickness, diarrhea, and a yellowing of your cat's mouth and in its eyes.
- Feline panleukopenia. This condition is also known as feline distemper, and is fatal most of the time for cats. Cats transmit this disease through an infected cat's fleas, blood, urine, feces, or secretions from its nose. This disease may remain in a cat's body for more than a year without you knowing it. It's something that builds over time. It can cause your cat to experience vomiting, fatigue, and dehydration.
- Feline viral rhinotracheitis, feline calicivirus, and feline pneumonitis. These are diseases that attack the respiratory systems of cats. Symptoms include runny nose and sneezing. They are transmitted through coming in contact with the secretions of an infected cat.
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Cat Neutering
Cat Neutering
The neutering of your female or male cat is a relatively simple and safe operation with positive results. It is usually recommended by your veterinarian unless you intend to breed your cat. Sometimes the operation disturbs the cat owner psychologically or emotionally, far more than the cat who quickly recovers and becomes an even better pet.
Female Cat:
The female cat matures more rapidly than the male cat, usually coming into breeding age at about 7 months old. She may reach breeding age as early as five months old.
She is able to produce dozens of kittens in her lifetime. Unless you are breeding your cat purposely with known sales in advance, you will have the responsibility of finding homes for these kittens. If you do not want that responsibility, you should seriously consider having your female cat spayed.
Unless your female cat is spayed or mated, she will be in recurring heat, not just a few times a year, but every three or four weeks, exhausting and distressing herself in her natural desire to mate. The most common symptoms that your cat is in heat are restlessness, nervousness, and tenseness. She may roll on the floor quite a bit and appear to be more affectionate than usual. Her voice changes and becomes more piercing and demanding.
Although the female cat has many heat periods during the year, she usually only has a few peak periods called "estrus" in which pregnancy can occur. Usually there are two, but sometimes three times occur. These usually occur in late fall or early winter and one as late winter or early spring. Each normally lasts 15 to 21 days. It is possible for a female cat to come into heat ten days after bearing a litter.
Spaying:
Many veterinarians feel that the ideal age for spaying is at about six to eight months old, before the female cat has had her first seasonal period. If you would like your cat to have a litter or two before having her spaying, you can still have the operation performed safely at a later age. It is usually not recommended for a female to be mated until she is one year old.
In a healthy cat, the operation of spaying involves an anesthetic, an abdominal incision, and hospitalization. After going home and until the stitches are removed, activity should be restricted and care taken to see that she does not break open the incision. The younger female usually heals faster than the older cat.
Spaying will not usually alter your cat's disposition or personality except to make her less nervous, less noisy, more relaxed, playful, and affectionate. She possibly may put on weight and increase in size, but proper diet control and exercise will keep her energetic, sleek, and muscular.
In addition, spaying will probably lengthen the life of your cat since she will have fewer health problems. For instance, the spayed cat does not develop pyometritis, a uterine infection not uncommon in unspayed, middle-aged or older female cats which may require surgical treatment when the cat is quite ill. The spayed cat is also less likely to develop breast tumors which often occur as the female cat gets older, especially if she has raised a litter of kittens.
Male Cat:
A mature, unaltered male cat (tom) has an almost uncontrollable desire to roam and fight, and his litter box will always have a strong odor. If you have an unaltered tom and keep him inside, he usually develops bad habits such as spraying your walls and furniture with a forceful stream of urine. The spray can ruin home furnishings. The odor is obnoxious to humans and difficult if not impossible to deodorize. Some psychologists say this spraying by a male is his way of marking his territory. Males usually spray while standing, but may assume a praying position as well.
Neutering or Castration:
Neutering or castrating a male cat that is usually performed by the veterinarian after the cat is eight or nine months old. Although simple, this operation requires anesthesia and perhaps overnight hospitalization.
After the surgery, the male cat will be an even better het. He will be more playful than hostile. He will not become anxious and there will be less stress. Howling related to mating activities will cease. He will stay at home more with less desire to roam.
If neutering is done when the cat is young, he may not acquire spraying habits. If he has already established this habit, it may remain after neutering. The strong, offensive odor will no longer be present, however.
After the operation, the male cat may have a more even disposition. He will be more playful and will not become fat or sluggish. He will not lose his charm or intelligence and will be easier to get along with and more pleasant in general.
The neutering of your female or male cat is a relatively simple and safe operation with positive results. It is usually recommended by your veterinarian unless you intend to breed your cat. Sometimes the operation disturbs the cat owner psychologically or emotionally, far more than the cat who quickly recovers and becomes an even better pet.
Female Cat:
The female cat matures more rapidly than the male cat, usually coming into breeding age at about 7 months old. She may reach breeding age as early as five months old.
She is able to produce dozens of kittens in her lifetime. Unless you are breeding your cat purposely with known sales in advance, you will have the responsibility of finding homes for these kittens. If you do not want that responsibility, you should seriously consider having your female cat spayed.
Unless your female cat is spayed or mated, she will be in recurring heat, not just a few times a year, but every three or four weeks, exhausting and distressing herself in her natural desire to mate. The most common symptoms that your cat is in heat are restlessness, nervousness, and tenseness. She may roll on the floor quite a bit and appear to be more affectionate than usual. Her voice changes and becomes more piercing and demanding.
Although the female cat has many heat periods during the year, she usually only has a few peak periods called "estrus" in which pregnancy can occur. Usually there are two, but sometimes three times occur. These usually occur in late fall or early winter and one as late winter or early spring. Each normally lasts 15 to 21 days. It is possible for a female cat to come into heat ten days after bearing a litter.
Spaying:
Many veterinarians feel that the ideal age for spaying is at about six to eight months old, before the female cat has had her first seasonal period. If you would like your cat to have a litter or two before having her spaying, you can still have the operation performed safely at a later age. It is usually not recommended for a female to be mated until she is one year old.
In a healthy cat, the operation of spaying involves an anesthetic, an abdominal incision, and hospitalization. After going home and until the stitches are removed, activity should be restricted and care taken to see that she does not break open the incision. The younger female usually heals faster than the older cat.
Spaying will not usually alter your cat's disposition or personality except to make her less nervous, less noisy, more relaxed, playful, and affectionate. She possibly may put on weight and increase in size, but proper diet control and exercise will keep her energetic, sleek, and muscular.
In addition, spaying will probably lengthen the life of your cat since she will have fewer health problems. For instance, the spayed cat does not develop pyometritis, a uterine infection not uncommon in unspayed, middle-aged or older female cats which may require surgical treatment when the cat is quite ill. The spayed cat is also less likely to develop breast tumors which often occur as the female cat gets older, especially if she has raised a litter of kittens.
Male Cat:
A mature, unaltered male cat (tom) has an almost uncontrollable desire to roam and fight, and his litter box will always have a strong odor. If you have an unaltered tom and keep him inside, he usually develops bad habits such as spraying your walls and furniture with a forceful stream of urine. The spray can ruin home furnishings. The odor is obnoxious to humans and difficult if not impossible to deodorize. Some psychologists say this spraying by a male is his way of marking his territory. Males usually spray while standing, but may assume a praying position as well.
Neutering or Castration:
Neutering or castrating a male cat that is usually performed by the veterinarian after the cat is eight or nine months old. Although simple, this operation requires anesthesia and perhaps overnight hospitalization.
After the surgery, the male cat will be an even better het. He will be more playful than hostile. He will not become anxious and there will be less stress. Howling related to mating activities will cease. He will stay at home more with less desire to roam.
If neutering is done when the cat is young, he may not acquire spraying habits. If he has already established this habit, it may remain after neutering. The strong, offensive odor will no longer be present, however.
After the operation, the male cat may have a more even disposition. He will be more playful and will not become fat or sluggish. He will not lose his charm or intelligence and will be easier to get along with and more pleasant in general.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Cat Litter Training
Cat Litter Training
Is your cat missing the litter box? Training is easier with these tips.
Cats instinctively prefer to leave their waste in loose areas that can be easily dug. Since they are born with this instinct, all you have to do is provide the area. Welcome, the litter box.
Training a cat or kitten to use a litter box is an easy task that requires little time. Some kittens are already litter trained by their mothers, but for the owner just adopting one, the responsibility is left up to you. Kittens can normally be trained to use a litter box at 4 weeks of age. The concept is basically the same for adult and small cats, but some basic guidelines can help you along.
1. Use an appropriately sized litter box. Larger cats will require a bigger box just as a kitten will need a smaller box. For kittens, be sure that the sides are low enough for them to enter. A cat cannot use a litter box they can't get into to.
2. Be sure to fill the box with at least 2 inches of litter. There are many different kinds of litter available, scoop-able, non scoop-able, wheat based, paper based, etc. If a cat refuses to use the litter box, it may be the litter. You may have to experiment to find which litter your cat prefers.
3. Position the litter box in a quiet yet convenient area. Some cats will be discouraged to use the litter box if it is placed in an inconvenient place like a basement. Cats do not like to eat where they leave waste, so be sure the box is away from the feeding area.
4. Introduce the cat to the litter box by gently placing them in it. You may find that the cat picks up the idea right away by playing and digging in it. Also be sure to take the cat to the litter box immediately after feeding it. You can also help the cat along by taking their paw and scratching it into the litter.
5. If the cat is behaving like it is looking for a place to use the potty, immediately place them into the litter box. It is important to not scold the cat and to be gentle. If they associate the litter box with punishment you will really be in for a battle.
6. Praise the cat when it does use the litter box. Let them know that this is wanted behavior.
7. Keep the litter box clean. Cats are picky animals and may start leaving waste in other areas if the litter box is not kept clean.
If all steps have failed and you find the cat not responding, a trip to the veterinarian may be needed. When cats won't use a litter box or suddenly stop using one, it could be a sign of illness.
Is your cat missing the litter box? Training is easier with these tips.
Cats instinctively prefer to leave their waste in loose areas that can be easily dug. Since they are born with this instinct, all you have to do is provide the area. Welcome, the litter box.
Training a cat or kitten to use a litter box is an easy task that requires little time. Some kittens are already litter trained by their mothers, but for the owner just adopting one, the responsibility is left up to you. Kittens can normally be trained to use a litter box at 4 weeks of age. The concept is basically the same for adult and small cats, but some basic guidelines can help you along.
1. Use an appropriately sized litter box. Larger cats will require a bigger box just as a kitten will need a smaller box. For kittens, be sure that the sides are low enough for them to enter. A cat cannot use a litter box they can't get into to.
2. Be sure to fill the box with at least 2 inches of litter. There are many different kinds of litter available, scoop-able, non scoop-able, wheat based, paper based, etc. If a cat refuses to use the litter box, it may be the litter. You may have to experiment to find which litter your cat prefers.
3. Position the litter box in a quiet yet convenient area. Some cats will be discouraged to use the litter box if it is placed in an inconvenient place like a basement. Cats do not like to eat where they leave waste, so be sure the box is away from the feeding area.
4. Introduce the cat to the litter box by gently placing them in it. You may find that the cat picks up the idea right away by playing and digging in it. Also be sure to take the cat to the litter box immediately after feeding it. You can also help the cat along by taking their paw and scratching it into the litter.
5. If the cat is behaving like it is looking for a place to use the potty, immediately place them into the litter box. It is important to not scold the cat and to be gentle. If they associate the litter box with punishment you will really be in for a battle.
6. Praise the cat when it does use the litter box. Let them know that this is wanted behavior.
7. Keep the litter box clean. Cats are picky animals and may start leaving waste in other areas if the litter box is not kept clean.
If all steps have failed and you find the cat not responding, a trip to the veterinarian may be needed. When cats won't use a litter box or suddenly stop using one, it could be a sign of illness.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Cat Proof Your Home
Cat Proof Your Home
Simple techniques and inexpensive products to use to cat proof your home and minimize damage by your cat, without having to redecorate your home.
Trying to keep your home as nice as it looked before you got a cat? Or trying to minimize the effects your cat has on your decor? There are four main areas where you want to focus your attention: paws, claws, hair, and teeth.
Paws
Cats are notorious for knocking small objects from shelves or table tops. Like toddlers and young children, they just cannot resist pretty things, especially ones that are light enough for them to push around with their paws. Cats can knock over just about anything they really set their minds to, including lamps and vases that you would think are much too heavy. There are two basic tactics here:
1. Remove what you can.
Put smaller items in curio cabinets, or away altogether. Open shelves may be tempting, but remember cats can and do jump, and love to wedge themselves into small spaces, including free space on shelves.
2. Fasten it down.
You can purchase a putty-like substance that will not mar wood or other surfaces, and you can use this to effectively "glue" your lamps, vases, figurines, what have you, to your furniture. Be sure to use enough to discourage a determined cat. Usually if a swipe of the paw doesn't do anything, the cat will give up quickly.
The other damage that paws can do is digging up your houseplants. Use Spanish moss to cover the soil in your plant pots, and they may be enough to discourage your cat's curiousity. Some cats will not dig in gravel, and so nicely colored stones may also be an option, but be aware that some cats aren't bothered by rocks at all. Wood chips or moss seem to be most effective in discouraging digging.
Claws
Cats' claws should be trimmed regularly to minimize damage. Declawing is inhumane and unnecessary if claws are trimmed frequently. The best way to prevent scratches and claw-mark damage to your possession is to give your cat something she can claw at whenever she wants. This means getting scratching posts and keeping them in several places around the house. If you have a piece of upholstered furniture that your cat likes to claw, get a scratching post and place it directly in front of the favorite scratching place, and put your cat's claws on the post so she gets the idea.
You may end up with scratching posts at every corner of your sofas and chairs, but that's better than having them shredded. You can easily put them away when company is expected.
Hair
Cats shed varying amounts depending on the breed and the season, and this can really be a problem for upholstered furniture and clothing. To remove fur from clothing, one of the tacky roller-handled hair removers is really your best bet; cat fur is very fine and silky, and clings like mad.
If you're buying new furniture, consider leather. Cat hair does not cling to smooth leather surfaces, and on distressed leather, it clings much less than to the typical upholstery fabric.
If you're not in the market for new furniture, a cosy throw-blanket can be just the invitation your cat needs to curl up. In my experience, if there is a blanket on any piece of furniture, the cat will sleep on the blanket rather than on the cushion. Have several blankets so you can rotate them frequently; make sure they're washable so you can just launder them when you need to. Company coming? Just throw on a new blanket and throw the old one in a hamper; the majority of any shed fur will go with the old blanket.
Teeth
Cats like to chew on cables, particularly cable television and computer cables. The best thing to do to protect the cables, and your cat, is to purchase some clear, flexible tubing to cover the cables with. You can find this in the plumbing department of your home improvement warehouse store, it is very inexpensive, and being clear, won't clash with your decor. The 5/8th inch size works well. With a sharp knife, slit the flexible tubing down its length, then open it up and slide the cable in. Even if the cat chews on the tubing, his teeth won't reach the actual cable inside.
With a little imagination and investments in a few inexpensive products, you can make your home cat-proof without having to completely redecorate.
Simple techniques and inexpensive products to use to cat proof your home and minimize damage by your cat, without having to redecorate your home.
Trying to keep your home as nice as it looked before you got a cat? Or trying to minimize the effects your cat has on your decor? There are four main areas where you want to focus your attention: paws, claws, hair, and teeth.
Paws
Cats are notorious for knocking small objects from shelves or table tops. Like toddlers and young children, they just cannot resist pretty things, especially ones that are light enough for them to push around with their paws. Cats can knock over just about anything they really set their minds to, including lamps and vases that you would think are much too heavy. There are two basic tactics here:
1. Remove what you can.
Put smaller items in curio cabinets, or away altogether. Open shelves may be tempting, but remember cats can and do jump, and love to wedge themselves into small spaces, including free space on shelves.
2. Fasten it down.
You can purchase a putty-like substance that will not mar wood or other surfaces, and you can use this to effectively "glue" your lamps, vases, figurines, what have you, to your furniture. Be sure to use enough to discourage a determined cat. Usually if a swipe of the paw doesn't do anything, the cat will give up quickly.
The other damage that paws can do is digging up your houseplants. Use Spanish moss to cover the soil in your plant pots, and they may be enough to discourage your cat's curiousity. Some cats will not dig in gravel, and so nicely colored stones may also be an option, but be aware that some cats aren't bothered by rocks at all. Wood chips or moss seem to be most effective in discouraging digging.
Claws
Cats' claws should be trimmed regularly to minimize damage. Declawing is inhumane and unnecessary if claws are trimmed frequently. The best way to prevent scratches and claw-mark damage to your possession is to give your cat something she can claw at whenever she wants. This means getting scratching posts and keeping them in several places around the house. If you have a piece of upholstered furniture that your cat likes to claw, get a scratching post and place it directly in front of the favorite scratching place, and put your cat's claws on the post so she gets the idea.
You may end up with scratching posts at every corner of your sofas and chairs, but that's better than having them shredded. You can easily put them away when company is expected.
Hair
Cats shed varying amounts depending on the breed and the season, and this can really be a problem for upholstered furniture and clothing. To remove fur from clothing, one of the tacky roller-handled hair removers is really your best bet; cat fur is very fine and silky, and clings like mad.
If you're buying new furniture, consider leather. Cat hair does not cling to smooth leather surfaces, and on distressed leather, it clings much less than to the typical upholstery fabric.
If you're not in the market for new furniture, a cosy throw-blanket can be just the invitation your cat needs to curl up. In my experience, if there is a blanket on any piece of furniture, the cat will sleep on the blanket rather than on the cushion. Have several blankets so you can rotate them frequently; make sure they're washable so you can just launder them when you need to. Company coming? Just throw on a new blanket and throw the old one in a hamper; the majority of any shed fur will go with the old blanket.
Teeth
Cats like to chew on cables, particularly cable television and computer cables. The best thing to do to protect the cables, and your cat, is to purchase some clear, flexible tubing to cover the cables with. You can find this in the plumbing department of your home improvement warehouse store, it is very inexpensive, and being clear, won't clash with your decor. The 5/8th inch size works well. With a sharp knife, slit the flexible tubing down its length, then open it up and slide the cable in. Even if the cat chews on the tubing, his teeth won't reach the actual cable inside.
With a little imagination and investments in a few inexpensive products, you can make your home cat-proof without having to completely redecorate.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Cat Shows: How To Get Your Cat In
Cat Shows: How To Get Your Cat In
How to enter cat shows. What breeds can be shown? What happens at a cat show? Are there special breeding or training requirements?
Your cat is just too gorgeous NOT to show her, right? Or perhaps you haven't bought a cat yet, but would like to get one that could enter shows. Then, there are some things you might want to know about showing your magnificent feline.
Q. Can only certain breeds enter shows?
A. It really depends upon the cat organization and its show's requirements.
Some shows are breed specific, some are for a variety of breeds, and others, while not as prestigious, allow common housecats to enter.
Q. How can I get purebred cat?
A. First, do a little research on what kind of cat you want. Then check around your area for breeders and specifically request a "show kitten." Be prepared, however, show cats are, of course, more expensive.
Q. What are some of the more famous cat associations and shows?
A. The distinguished Cat Fancier's Association (CFA) is at the top. Other groups are the International Cat Association and the American Cat Fancier's Association. These might offer better shows for the beginner as they seem to be less intimidating than the CFA.
Q. What are the shows like?
A. They usually last 1-2 days and are usually divided into categories of cats such as kittens, championship, premiership, or household. The cats will be viewed by judges together as well as separately and within their breed.
Q. How do I start?
A. Subscribing to a cat magazine can be helpful since they often have articles about shows in them. They also list upcoming shows. You need to register about a month before the show by getting an entry form and sending it in as soon as you can. Read all information about the show carefully, including all the important rules and regulations.
Showing your cat is a lot of work, but can be a very rewarding experience, especially if you win!
How to enter cat shows. What breeds can be shown? What happens at a cat show? Are there special breeding or training requirements?
Your cat is just too gorgeous NOT to show her, right? Or perhaps you haven't bought a cat yet, but would like to get one that could enter shows. Then, there are some things you might want to know about showing your magnificent feline.
Q. Can only certain breeds enter shows?
A. It really depends upon the cat organization and its show's requirements.
Some shows are breed specific, some are for a variety of breeds, and others, while not as prestigious, allow common housecats to enter.
Q. How can I get purebred cat?
A. First, do a little research on what kind of cat you want. Then check around your area for breeders and specifically request a "show kitten." Be prepared, however, show cats are, of course, more expensive.
Q. What are some of the more famous cat associations and shows?
A. The distinguished Cat Fancier's Association (CFA) is at the top. Other groups are the International Cat Association and the American Cat Fancier's Association. These might offer better shows for the beginner as they seem to be less intimidating than the CFA.
Q. What are the shows like?
A. They usually last 1-2 days and are usually divided into categories of cats such as kittens, championship, premiership, or household. The cats will be viewed by judges together as well as separately and within their breed.
Q. How do I start?
A. Subscribing to a cat magazine can be helpful since they often have articles about shows in them. They also list upcoming shows. You need to register about a month before the show by getting an entry form and sending it in as soon as you can. Read all information about the show carefully, including all the important rules and regulations.
Showing your cat is a lot of work, but can be a very rewarding experience, especially if you win!
Cat Training
Cat Training
Cat training made easy! Time tested techniques to train your stubborn feline and control unacceptable behavior patterns.
In order to fully understand the process of training a cat, you must be able to understand common feline behaviors and correctly interpret them. By understanding your cat better and by using this understanding to better communicate with your cat, you will have more success in training the often stubborn cat. Cats have their own personalities and traits. Half the fun of owning a pet is learning, 'who' the little personality is that lives with you. There are many books that cover the basics of cat language and behavior, so I will not cover them in detail here.
I happen to have very individualistic felines, and I'm sure that most owners feel the same way. Most of my 6 cats are well behaved and only have occasional fights amongst each other. All my cats are trained to stay off the kitchen table and counter tops. They are also box trained and claw trained, the latter meaning they don't climb the curtains or sharpen their claws in unapproved areas.
Affection is the key to training, and I feel it's more successful than rewarding with treats. I never hit my cats. I use a stern vocal tone and tap the nose with my index finger. In more extreme cases, I use a plant mister with the setting at stream, just like a squirt gun. Vocal admonishment and squirting are quite disturbing for felines and will be remembered for some time. Felines have very sensitive ears and the raising of vocal tones causes discomfort. Very few cats like water, most abhorring it. Both modes of discipline are physically safe, but unnerving enough to engender good behavior.
Most cats learn by imitation, and will be somewhat trained when you adopt them. They learn cleaning habits as well as box training from their mother. Many will also learn bad habits from their Mother and other siblings. Aggressive behaviors are the most common training issues in young kittens. When aggressive behaviors (such as severe biting and playing with claws extended) are observed a stern reminder and a tap on the nose is usually all that is required. I have had stubborn felines that required water reinforcement rather than the finger tap. Regardless, both methods only need be applied a few times, as smarter animals will learn within the first two discipline episodes.
After awhile, just raising my voice or merely shaking the water bottle is enough to stop the undesired behavior on the spot. I continue with these behavior modifications, relying also on the other cats as a good model, as needed.
In addition to learning house rules, many felines are intelligent enough to be trained to open doors, use windows for home access instead of a pet door, and even use the toilet, eliminating the need for a cat box (how nice!). In the case of the latter, kits are available that ease the cat, over a series of weeks, into and on top of the toilet. Ultimate success rests on the temperament of the individual and consistent affection and reinforcement. My favorite part of training my cats is praising them for good behavior. I have turned all my cats and kittens into love junkies. This loving relationship moves mountains when it comes to stubborn pets.
In some instances, a new undesirable trait will emerge due to a temporary or long term stress introduced in the household. Anything from remodeling to introducing a baby or a new pet into the environment can trigger these behaviors. Again, positive reinforcement and doses of extra loving care are required. In some instanced, medications may be needed to ease the situation. It is always a good idea to visit or call your veterinarian in these situations. Many are specially trained in abnormal animal psychology and can often prescribe a temporary treatment, with gradual reduction in medication and desensitizing training. Such methods can reduce stress in the entire household, making everyone happier and healthier. Abnormal behavior is the major cause of pet euthanasia, and is often avoidable. Some owners will mistakenly believe that the animal will find a new home in a shelter. The stark reality is that if the behavior is never corrected, the animal with be put down due to non-adoption or at another owners request.
My favorite books for reference when I have a question or concern are listed below. Read them and gain valuable insight from the doctors and physicians listed.
List of Works Consulted
Cat training made easy! Time tested techniques to train your stubborn feline and control unacceptable behavior patterns.
In order to fully understand the process of training a cat, you must be able to understand common feline behaviors and correctly interpret them. By understanding your cat better and by using this understanding to better communicate with your cat, you will have more success in training the often stubborn cat. Cats have their own personalities and traits. Half the fun of owning a pet is learning, 'who' the little personality is that lives with you. There are many books that cover the basics of cat language and behavior, so I will not cover them in detail here.
I happen to have very individualistic felines, and I'm sure that most owners feel the same way. Most of my 6 cats are well behaved and only have occasional fights amongst each other. All my cats are trained to stay off the kitchen table and counter tops. They are also box trained and claw trained, the latter meaning they don't climb the curtains or sharpen their claws in unapproved areas.
Affection is the key to training, and I feel it's more successful than rewarding with treats. I never hit my cats. I use a stern vocal tone and tap the nose with my index finger. In more extreme cases, I use a plant mister with the setting at stream, just like a squirt gun. Vocal admonishment and squirting are quite disturbing for felines and will be remembered for some time. Felines have very sensitive ears and the raising of vocal tones causes discomfort. Very few cats like water, most abhorring it. Both modes of discipline are physically safe, but unnerving enough to engender good behavior.
Most cats learn by imitation, and will be somewhat trained when you adopt them. They learn cleaning habits as well as box training from their mother. Many will also learn bad habits from their Mother and other siblings. Aggressive behaviors are the most common training issues in young kittens. When aggressive behaviors (such as severe biting and playing with claws extended) are observed a stern reminder and a tap on the nose is usually all that is required. I have had stubborn felines that required water reinforcement rather than the finger tap. Regardless, both methods only need be applied a few times, as smarter animals will learn within the first two discipline episodes.
After awhile, just raising my voice or merely shaking the water bottle is enough to stop the undesired behavior on the spot. I continue with these behavior modifications, relying also on the other cats as a good model, as needed.
In addition to learning house rules, many felines are intelligent enough to be trained to open doors, use windows for home access instead of a pet door, and even use the toilet, eliminating the need for a cat box (how nice!). In the case of the latter, kits are available that ease the cat, over a series of weeks, into and on top of the toilet. Ultimate success rests on the temperament of the individual and consistent affection and reinforcement. My favorite part of training my cats is praising them for good behavior. I have turned all my cats and kittens into love junkies. This loving relationship moves mountains when it comes to stubborn pets.
In some instances, a new undesirable trait will emerge due to a temporary or long term stress introduced in the household. Anything from remodeling to introducing a baby or a new pet into the environment can trigger these behaviors. Again, positive reinforcement and doses of extra loving care are required. In some instanced, medications may be needed to ease the situation. It is always a good idea to visit or call your veterinarian in these situations. Many are specially trained in abnormal animal psychology and can often prescribe a temporary treatment, with gradual reduction in medication and desensitizing training. Such methods can reduce stress in the entire household, making everyone happier and healthier. Abnormal behavior is the major cause of pet euthanasia, and is often avoidable. Some owners will mistakenly believe that the animal will find a new home in a shelter. The stark reality is that if the behavior is never corrected, the animal with be put down due to non-adoption or at another owners request.
My favorite books for reference when I have a question or concern are listed below. Read them and gain valuable insight from the doctors and physicians listed.
List of Works Consulted
- Hammond, Sean and Carolyn Usrey. How to Raise a Sane and Healthy Cat. New York:
- Howell Book House, 1994.
- Dodman, Nicholas, The Cat Who Cried for Help. New York: Bantam, 1997.
- Cornell University. The Cornell Book of Cats. Ed. Mordecai Siegal. New York: Villard, 1997.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Cat Myths
Cat Myths
A debunking common myths and superstitions about cats.
Cats are graceful animals and the myths do not do them justice.
A debunking common myths and superstitions about cats.
Cats are often seen as proud and unapproachable. They are unlike dogs which are friendly and socialable animals. Cats are instinctively independent which explains the myth that cats are proud. Cats have interesting personalities which are seen when they use their " cat language " to communicate with their owners.
Cats are perceived as evil because of their sly looks. Their eyes have narrow pupils which give them a disdainful, evil look. In truth, it is for practical reasons that their eyes have narrowed pupils. This serves to protect the eyes from the bright daylight. After twilight, the cat's pupils dilate to enable it to see better in the dark.
Cats are often misunderstood as being dirty animals because they dislike bathing in water. Cats prefer to " dryclean " themselves by licking and grooming themselves. They dislike water because they have no use for it. However, owners who are particular can give their cats regular baths and towel them dry. cats are cleaner animals than dogs as they are easier to toilet train. They also have the instinctive ability to cover their own droppings.
Another reason why people are biased against cats for their dirtiness is because cats can spread the disease called Toxoplasmosis. An infected cat passes droppings with the parasite Toxoplasma gondii which is transmitted to others through contact. Generally, everyone has to wash their hands with soap after touching any cat. This parasite may cause fever in some people but usually the body's immune system can overcome it. This disease is dangerous for pregnant women as the fetus is unable to fight the parasite. Kids are susceptible to parasites and must be reminded to wash their hands with soap after touching any cat or kitten.
Many authors and cartoonists portray the cat as an evil character. They perpetuate the myth of the evil cat. Cats can be found everywhere so whenever something bad khappens, it is very convenient to blame it on a cat seen around the vicinity. It is a superstition that a black cat brings bad luck. Many people are afraid of these black cats. However, there are some cat owners who buy special pedigree breeds in te color black because black looks sleek, smooth and sophiscated.
Some people think that cats will scratch and attack babies because the cats are naturally evil animals. Actually, the cat feels threatened by the arrival of the new baby and it is just protecting its territorial rights. To overcome this, the owner should introduce the new baby to the cat and familiarize it with the baby.
Cats are graceful animals and the myths do not do them justice.
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