Plants That Are Poisonous To Cats
Learn which plants are poisonous to cats. Cats ingest grass or other plant material to aid in hairball elimination. Beware! Many plants are toxic for felines!
Cats are supposed to be carnivores meat eaters but how many times have you seen Puss nibbling on your prize spider plant or fern? If she's allowed outdoors she probably heads straight for the lushest part of the lawn, then begins "grazing". A few minutes later she'll likely vomit or worse zip back inside and regurgitate onto your carpet! You mutter something about never letting the beast outside again, then clean up the mess. Puss is forgiven for her little 'mistake' and next day it happens all over again.
Why do cats have the urge to eat grass and other types of greenery? Veterinarians and other animal specialists really don't know for sure, although they do agree that this type of behavior is completely normal. Their best guess is that cats nibble on plant matter to stimulate vomiting which rids them of hairballs ingested from grooming. For cats that don't vomit after plant ingestion it may be that they simply enjoy some roughage in their diet from time to time.
While Puss might enjoy variety, chewing on certain kinds of plants could make her very sick, and in some cases, kill her. Why? Many varieties of indoor and outdoor plants are toxic. To keep your cat safe, it makes sense to have only those varieties of houseplants that are non-poisonous. It's also a good idea to keep all your houseplants out of a cat's reach. Hanging baskets or high shelves usually do the trick. Even then it's a good idea to spray plants with some type of pungent and non-irritating solution to keep Puss away. A mild vinegar solution will work.
Greenhouses often spray their plants with long-lasting systemic poisons to control pests. If your cat ingests these sprays due to plant nibbling she may also become ill. Ask about the use of these sprays and the kinds of safe solutions available to neutralise them.
There's a simple alternative to keep Puss's mind off those tempting plants. Pet stores carry assorted kits that come complete with quick-sprouting grass or grain seeds, potting soil and a pot. In a matter of 7-10 days, your cat can have her own little "grazing" pot which can be re-seeded again and again.
Here's a short list of just a few indoor and outdoor plants that can cause vomiting, nausea or convulsions or be potentially toxic for your cat: dieffenbachia (or dumbcane), philodendrons, asparagus fern, bleeding heart, Boston ivy, chrysanthemum, clematis, hemlock, lantana, mock orange, morning glory, poppy, potato, rubber plant, rhubarb, schefflera, spider plant (although some experts disagree) tulips, umbrella plant, wisteria.
Don't let your guard down at Christmas or Easter either! Poinsettias, mistletoe and the Christmas rose can be fatal. Daffodils are friendly-looking flowers, but are also lethal so avoid bringing them into your house at all. If you can't celebrate the Christmas season without the traditional poinsettia, keep the plant away from curious kitties.
Talk to your veterinarian for complete list of indoor and outdoor plants that may be harmful to your cat. Keep it handy and check it before introducing any new plants into your home or your garden.
If Puss has ingested even a tiny piece of a toxic plant, get her to the vet right away. Some cats won't show immediate symptoms. Others may drool, vomit, swell around the mouth, have difficulty breathing or they may get diarrhea. If ingestion of a toxic plant or substance has just occurred and you can't get your cat to the vet right away, try to induce vomiting. Give syrup of Ipecac or one quarter teaspoon of salt placed at the back of the tongue. Or consult your vet for a recommended alternative.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT induce vomiting if your cat has swallowed the toxic plant more than two hours before, is comatose, or has swallowed some type of chemical or cleaning product!! In this case it's even more imperative to get her to the vet as soon as possible!
Plants and cats. Sometimes they're a potentially hazardous mix. Make sure you know the plants that are harmful for your feline friend and those that aren't. You and she will have much greater piece of mind!
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Cutting Your Cat'S Claws
Cutting Your Cat'S Claws
Step-by-step instructions on cutting your cat's claws.
If you have a cat, you're already familiar with the damage it can inflict with its razor-sharp claws. Claws, like our fingernails, grow constantly, and cats enjoy "kneading" their claws on just about any surface with special fondness for upholstered furniture and carpets. After awhile, the object of all this feline attention can be reduced to tatters.
A few moments a week is all you need to minimize this damage and protect your furniture from snags and your ankles from scratches. Learning to cut your cat's claws is easy. All you need is patience and the proper equipment.
Equipment
I recommend a regular fingernail clipper, the kind you can pick up at any convenience store or drug store. You might even try a baby-size nail clipper, depending on the size of your own hands. Most, scissor-handled clippers, designed for dogs, are much too large to use on cat's claws. The small size and easy maneuverability of the typical fingernail clipper makes it the ideal tool.
Preparation
If your cat is not a kitten and is not accustomed to having its nails clipped, you should take some time over the course of a few weeks to get your cat comfortable with you handling its paws.
Whenever your cat is in a cuddly mood, simply pick up one of its front paws and hold it gently for a while. If your cat doesn't object to this, try to extend its claws so you can take a look at them and get a feel for the technique, which is described below. If your cat struggles or growls, immediately let it go. At this point, all you want to do is introduce your cat to the idea of someone touching its paws and manipulating its claws. With older cats, this may take some time. You can smooth the way some by offering your cat a little treat if it allows you to handle its paws for a time.
Technique
Once your cat is used to the idea of its paws being handled, it is much easier to approach the task of clipping the nails. Hold your cat on your lap, sitting up, and take one of its front paws in your "grasping" hand; the other hand will be the "clipping" hand. Generally, if you are right-handed, you'll want to clip with your right hand and grasp with the left, but experiment and find which works best for you.
The first thing to do is extend the claws. Grasp the paw firmly with your fingers underneath and your thumb on top. The pad of the cat's foot should rest on your fingertips. Comparing the cat's paw to your own hand, your fingers would be on the palm side, with your thumb resting behind the knuckles.
Using gentle pressure with your thumb, press down behind each of the toes to extend each claw. If you squeeze gently in the center, sometimes all the claws will extend; it can be easier to extend one at a time, though. Again comparing how this would work on your own hand, pinch your hand between your forefinger and thumb, just behind each knuckle.
With very little pressure, the claw will extend, and you can easily see the sharp tip you need to snip. Using the nail clippers, snip just the sharp tip, certainly no more than 1/8 of an inch. If you cut off too much, you will injure your cat. If you snip quickly and carefully, the cat may not even react. Typically, it tries to pull away, but try to continue, making reassuring sounds as you go.
Once you have clipped the first nail, extend the next, and clip it. Keep extending and clipping until all five nails (for front paws) or four (for back paws) have been trimmed, or until your cat lets you know that it has had enough.
Don't try to trim the claws of an angry or impatient cat. You know your cat's temper, so if you detect the sure signs of an attack, back off quickly. It is very common to have to trim one paw at a time, or even just a few nails.
Reward your cat's patience by extra cuddles or games, or perhaps a treat. You will probably not have to repeat this process weekly, but you should check your cat's claws frequently so that it remains accustomed to the feeling of you extending its claws, even if the claws don't need trimming. Back paws need less maintenance than front paws, too; you won't need to trim them every week.
Once established as part of a regular routine, nail clipping is quickly and easily done and is a life preserver for the upholstery in your home.
Step-by-step instructions on cutting your cat's claws.
If you have a cat, you're already familiar with the damage it can inflict with its razor-sharp claws. Claws, like our fingernails, grow constantly, and cats enjoy "kneading" their claws on just about any surface with special fondness for upholstered furniture and carpets. After awhile, the object of all this feline attention can be reduced to tatters.
A few moments a week is all you need to minimize this damage and protect your furniture from snags and your ankles from scratches. Learning to cut your cat's claws is easy. All you need is patience and the proper equipment.
Equipment
I recommend a regular fingernail clipper, the kind you can pick up at any convenience store or drug store. You might even try a baby-size nail clipper, depending on the size of your own hands. Most, scissor-handled clippers, designed for dogs, are much too large to use on cat's claws. The small size and easy maneuverability of the typical fingernail clipper makes it the ideal tool.
Preparation
If your cat is not a kitten and is not accustomed to having its nails clipped, you should take some time over the course of a few weeks to get your cat comfortable with you handling its paws.
Whenever your cat is in a cuddly mood, simply pick up one of its front paws and hold it gently for a while. If your cat doesn't object to this, try to extend its claws so you can take a look at them and get a feel for the technique, which is described below. If your cat struggles or growls, immediately let it go. At this point, all you want to do is introduce your cat to the idea of someone touching its paws and manipulating its claws. With older cats, this may take some time. You can smooth the way some by offering your cat a little treat if it allows you to handle its paws for a time.
Technique
Once your cat is used to the idea of its paws being handled, it is much easier to approach the task of clipping the nails. Hold your cat on your lap, sitting up, and take one of its front paws in your "grasping" hand; the other hand will be the "clipping" hand. Generally, if you are right-handed, you'll want to clip with your right hand and grasp with the left, but experiment and find which works best for you.
The first thing to do is extend the claws. Grasp the paw firmly with your fingers underneath and your thumb on top. The pad of the cat's foot should rest on your fingertips. Comparing the cat's paw to your own hand, your fingers would be on the palm side, with your thumb resting behind the knuckles.
Using gentle pressure with your thumb, press down behind each of the toes to extend each claw. If you squeeze gently in the center, sometimes all the claws will extend; it can be easier to extend one at a time, though. Again comparing how this would work on your own hand, pinch your hand between your forefinger and thumb, just behind each knuckle.
With very little pressure, the claw will extend, and you can easily see the sharp tip you need to snip. Using the nail clippers, snip just the sharp tip, certainly no more than 1/8 of an inch. If you cut off too much, you will injure your cat. If you snip quickly and carefully, the cat may not even react. Typically, it tries to pull away, but try to continue, making reassuring sounds as you go.
Once you have clipped the first nail, extend the next, and clip it. Keep extending and clipping until all five nails (for front paws) or four (for back paws) have been trimmed, or until your cat lets you know that it has had enough.
Don't try to trim the claws of an angry or impatient cat. You know your cat's temper, so if you detect the sure signs of an attack, back off quickly. It is very common to have to trim one paw at a time, or even just a few nails.
Reward your cat's patience by extra cuddles or games, or perhaps a treat. You will probably not have to repeat this process weekly, but you should check your cat's claws frequently so that it remains accustomed to the feeling of you extending its claws, even if the claws don't need trimming. Back paws need less maintenance than front paws, too; you won't need to trim them every week.
Once established as part of a regular routine, nail clipping is quickly and easily done and is a life preserver for the upholstery in your home.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Cat Hair Ball Remedy
Cat Hair Ball Remedy
Hair balls are a natural part of your cat's life. Overgrooming and skin irritation however, can lead to a very unhealthy obsession. Learn how to prevent and treat the common hair ball.
Cats often spend hours licking their coats and paws. Sometimes, therefore, too much hair can get trapped in a cat's stomach, thus causing hair balls.
THE MAKING OF A HAIR BALL
Hair balls form naturally in cats after days (and sometimes weeks or months) of grooming. Large accumulations of hair become trapped in the stomach because they are simply too big to pass through the digestive system. The more hair that enters the stomach at one time, the larger the wad becomes. Cats need to regurgitate, vomit, or cough up these balls of hair to prevent digestive blockages and disease.
PREVENTING HAIR BALLS
While it would be impossible to teach your pet not to groom itself, there are ways to work around hair balls.
THE FIBER FIXER
Sometimes a high fiber pet food is all it takes to accelerate the passage of a hair ball or alleviate hair balls altogether. When looking for high fiber foods, look for ones containing 3-10 percent fiber. The higher the fiber level, the less trouble your pet will have eliminating hair.
USE THE BRUSH
Brushing cats of stray hair won't stop them from their incessant need to clean, but it will help to cut down on the amount of hair they're swallowing each day. Cats shed hundreds of hairs each day, especially in spring and summer months. Long haired cats should be combed and brushed twice daily. Shorter haired cats should be brushed thoroughly every day.
USE MOISTURE
If you moisten a washcloth and wipe your cat following a brushing session, you'll attract whatever stray and loose hairs your combing and brushing missed. Moisten a paper towel or washcloth with lukewarm water and spend 60 seconds petting the hair away.
TREATING HAIR BALLS
Petroleum elixir. When your cat first begins hacking, try giving it a small amount of petroleum jelly. Most cats like the taste of petroleum jelly, so putting 1/4 teaspoon on your finger and allowing the cat to lick it off works well. If your cat isn't fond of the taste, you can put it on his front paw or under his nose, where he will lick himself while grooming. Do this once a day for four days, or until the hair ball passes.
Over the counter treatment. There are several over the counter treatments that help to lubricate hair balls and allow for easy passage. Many fussy cats who don't respond to petroleum jelly actually enjoy the tasty treatments.
Butter. One of the best treatments for hair balls is butter. Since cats love the taste of butter, this is an easy alternative to expensive, over the counter medications. Besides being a natural lubricant, butter makes the gall bladder contract and empty bile, making this a great, mild laxative for your pet. Give each cat 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of butter, once daily, for up to one week. Do not use this treatment with overweight or unhealthy animals.
WATCH THE SKIN
Cats with skin irritations tend to baby their fur and skin, thus inhaling and swallowing larger amounts of fur. If your pet exhibits signs of excessive itchiness or irritation, it may be time to check it for mange, fleas, or infection. Your veterinarian can help determine the cause of your cat's concern.
PLAY
Some cats lick out of sheer habit. For the hearty lickers, you can help distract them with games and toys. Compulsive licking and overgrooming can cause unnecessary stress to your cat, as well as the accumulation of hair in the stomach.
EMERGENCIES
While most hair balls are not cause for concern, sometimes things do get out of hand. Hair balls as large as 12 inches long have been found by some vets treating sick animals.
Even normal size hair balls can cause intestinal blockage or choking. If your cat retches for long periods of time or longer than three days, see a veterinarian. Consequently, if your pet refuses to eat, is constipated, or seems to be in pain, call your local animal hospital. A hair ball that blocks the digestive tract can be deadly, so it's important to act early.
Hair balls are a natural part of your cat's life. Overgrooming and skin irritation however, can lead to a very unhealthy obsession. Learn how to prevent and treat the common hair ball.
Cats often spend hours licking their coats and paws. Sometimes, therefore, too much hair can get trapped in a cat's stomach, thus causing hair balls.
THE MAKING OF A HAIR BALL
Hair balls form naturally in cats after days (and sometimes weeks or months) of grooming. Large accumulations of hair become trapped in the stomach because they are simply too big to pass through the digestive system. The more hair that enters the stomach at one time, the larger the wad becomes. Cats need to regurgitate, vomit, or cough up these balls of hair to prevent digestive blockages and disease.
PREVENTING HAIR BALLS
While it would be impossible to teach your pet not to groom itself, there are ways to work around hair balls.
THE FIBER FIXER
Sometimes a high fiber pet food is all it takes to accelerate the passage of a hair ball or alleviate hair balls altogether. When looking for high fiber foods, look for ones containing 3-10 percent fiber. The higher the fiber level, the less trouble your pet will have eliminating hair.
USE THE BRUSH
Brushing cats of stray hair won't stop them from their incessant need to clean, but it will help to cut down on the amount of hair they're swallowing each day. Cats shed hundreds of hairs each day, especially in spring and summer months. Long haired cats should be combed and brushed twice daily. Shorter haired cats should be brushed thoroughly every day.
USE MOISTURE
If you moisten a washcloth and wipe your cat following a brushing session, you'll attract whatever stray and loose hairs your combing and brushing missed. Moisten a paper towel or washcloth with lukewarm water and spend 60 seconds petting the hair away.
TREATING HAIR BALLS
Petroleum elixir. When your cat first begins hacking, try giving it a small amount of petroleum jelly. Most cats like the taste of petroleum jelly, so putting 1/4 teaspoon on your finger and allowing the cat to lick it off works well. If your cat isn't fond of the taste, you can put it on his front paw or under his nose, where he will lick himself while grooming. Do this once a day for four days, or until the hair ball passes.
Over the counter treatment. There are several over the counter treatments that help to lubricate hair balls and allow for easy passage. Many fussy cats who don't respond to petroleum jelly actually enjoy the tasty treatments.
Butter. One of the best treatments for hair balls is butter. Since cats love the taste of butter, this is an easy alternative to expensive, over the counter medications. Besides being a natural lubricant, butter makes the gall bladder contract and empty bile, making this a great, mild laxative for your pet. Give each cat 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of butter, once daily, for up to one week. Do not use this treatment with overweight or unhealthy animals.
WATCH THE SKIN
Cats with skin irritations tend to baby their fur and skin, thus inhaling and swallowing larger amounts of fur. If your pet exhibits signs of excessive itchiness or irritation, it may be time to check it for mange, fleas, or infection. Your veterinarian can help determine the cause of your cat's concern.
PLAY
Some cats lick out of sheer habit. For the hearty lickers, you can help distract them with games and toys. Compulsive licking and overgrooming can cause unnecessary stress to your cat, as well as the accumulation of hair in the stomach.
EMERGENCIES
While most hair balls are not cause for concern, sometimes things do get out of hand. Hair balls as large as 12 inches long have been found by some vets treating sick animals.
Even normal size hair balls can cause intestinal blockage or choking. If your cat retches for long periods of time or longer than three days, see a veterinarian. Consequently, if your pet refuses to eat, is constipated, or seems to be in pain, call your local animal hospital. A hair ball that blocks the digestive tract can be deadly, so it's important to act early.
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